ModaLisboa Kiss // Day Two

Olga Noronha

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Olga Noronha presented her “β CREATURES” collection on the LAB platform. Olga Noronha had as principal inspiration the beauty and dichotomy – delicacy/violence – that are known to the male Betta fish. The designer used materials such as porcelain, fish skin from cod, salmon and sea bass, corals, gemstones, crystals, natural pearls, gold leaf and stamped polyester to create wearable sculptures that reflect the creatures from which she takes inspiration as well as the environment where those creatures live in. The shoes were a result from the collaboration between the designer and Biblical Lust.

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Ricardo Andrez

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Ricardo Andrez presented “Stereo”, a collection based on color and how color is attached to life and its’ intensity, emotion and dimension. Ricardo Andrez explored color transitions between the chromatic borders, translated to the collection with a predominant neutral color palette – white, grey and black – with the addition of vivid colors such as pink, orange, green, purple and blue, applied in solid blocks or in wave-like prints. Some of the details in the collection were the extra-long sleeves, the fur applications, the sleeves’ cutouts, the zipper application on cuffs, pants and jackets and, of course, the prints and color palette. Other details from the collection were the shoes – the result from a collaboration between Ricardo Andrez and Melo – and the sunglasses from Vava.

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Rose Palhares

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Rose Palhares had her début on the LAB platform. The designer presented “Kiss from Rose”, a collection aligned with the theme for the 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa. “Kiss from Rose” was a collection that had a seductive, self-assured and passionate-about-life woman in mind, that dictate the use of laces and transparencies in the collection, as well as red, gold, blue, pink and champagne in form fitting silhouettes that complement the women’s body.

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Christophe Sauvat

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For AW 16/17 Christophe Sauvat presented a collection that reinforces the brand’s motto “One world, no boundaries”, travelling to the Nordic countries for inspiration. Staying true to the brand’s identity, Christophe Sauvat presented an eclectic collection yet appropriate to the urban and modern woman living in the city. The color palette present in the collection ranged from snow white, autumn browns and greens – a direct reflection of the Nordic landscapes – to black, that convey more versatility and elegance to the collection. The materials chosen vary from alpaca wool, leather and merino wool – for the warmer pieces – to cotton, faux astrakhan and silk – for the lighter pieces – embellished with embroideries and geometric patterns with pearls. The collection was completed with ethnic backpacks, embroidered clutches and practical cotton bags.

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Pedro Pedro

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Pedro Pedro presented “L’etrangère”, a youthful and relaxed collection with distinctive and voluminous silhouettes, layers of asymmetrical pieces and utilitarian and military influence on the coats. The overall feeling of the collection was unpretentious, referring us to a rural setting where exaggerated lengths were presented on sleeves and pants.

The designer presented a mix of materials, from wools, felts, cottons, linens, wool jerseys, quilted impermeable and check, in sober colors such as grey, beige, camel, black, khaki and shades of olive and neon green.

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Alexandra Moura

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“Woman” was the collection that Alexandra Moura presented on the last edition of ModaLisboa. The starting point of the collection was the work – sketches, scrapbooks and collages – of the artist Anohni, as well as the dramatic and theatrical charge present in her work.

“Woman” resulted in deconstructed classic silhouettes, with details brought from ancient times and from undergarments of both genders, that used as vehicle luxurious jacquard fabrics in voluminous coats and blankets, embellished with ruffles, ribbons and bows.

The color palette in the collection contemplated black, white, wine, blue, camel and sand tones.

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Carlos Gil

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Carlos Gil’s AW 16/17 collection was “Eclectic”. As the name refers, the collection mixed patterns, colors, textures and styles to provide a new look at elegance.

In general, thee looks  were composed by unusual layer combinations that, at the same time, have vintage reminiscences, clean cuts and sporty details, creating a bold and elegant sportswear chic look.

Carlos Gil played with different fabrics and textures, as glitters, lace, fur and patterns, in blazers, coats, blouses, sweaters and pleated wrap skirts to achieve the eclectic aesthetic proposed for this season collection.

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Morecco

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Morecco Lisboa presented for AW 16/17 its’ first full collection of garments.

The collection presented took as inspiration voyages through Turkey, Morocco and Korean cinema as well as the glamour of the nightclubs of New York and Paris in the 70s. The result was a celebration of color, textures and materials, where the color palette ranged from black, grey, white, orange and pale yellow and green in materials such as silk, fur and reused antique Chinese and Japanese fabric panels with fringe trims.

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Miguel Vieira

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Miguel Vieira presented “Color”, a collection where color takes center stage and where the designer was influence for the meanings and emotions attached with every color he selected : the mystery, power and elegance of caviar black; the calm, loyalty, wisdom and confidence of the dark navy blue; olympian blue, blend of cobalt and sapphire hues; the innocence, purity and perfection of marshmallow white; the optimism, joy and energy of mustard yellow.

The materials used by Miguel Vieira were neoprene, custom fabrics, quilted fabrics, cloth, silk crepe and fur, that were applied, for women, in structured and informal lines or voluminous lines that do not hide femininity with long and extra long heights; For men, structured suits and impeccably cut trousers.

The collection was completed with braided skin handbags, scarves and bracelets.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa – The Timers // Day 3

Nuno Gama

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“In the last edition of ModaLisboa, we sailed to the Cape of Good Hope. This season, we face the sea monster head on with a strong urge to be tied to the helm.” In this Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Nuno Gama uses as inspiration the sail Portuguese did around the Cape of Good Hope, in search of the incredible Africa, and across the immense Indian Ocean to the silent Asian beauty of blossoming almond trees, using all that Portuguese saw in this travel as elements of his design. Along with this, he recovered Dandyism, through tailor-made, personalized and unique pieces where we see the permanence of luxury and color, and the renewal of the everlasting classics, that is present on the shirts, ribbons, kerchiefs and ties.

Filipe Faísca

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Filipe Faísca presents “Now”, a collection that represents the strength we have to experience life that is in a constant change, with all of our uncertainties, dreams and social demands. But in the end, we will arrive where we are supposed to. This concept translated into the collection in a fluid, oversize and layered silhouette in materials such as silk, viscose, neoprene, leather and lace. The colors used in “Now” were mid-day white, eclipse black, desert dust, apple green, jade blue and coral.

Kolovrat

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“Invitation for coffee” is the collection Lidija Kolovrat presented for Spring/Summer 2016. She uses her childhood memories and experiences as inspiration for this collection: the “patterns” left by the coffee in the bottom of the cup and the women who talked about these stains, foreseeing happenings and life situations which improved Lidija’s connection with the Universe and the meanings of its abstract nature. The silhouettes resulted of the combination between the abstract and the composition of worked circular shapes and refined “classical” lines, evolving into monochromatic tones of black and white, with a touch of blue, introduced through the original artworks of coffee elements.

Nadir Tati

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“Souls of Africa” is a homage to all African women that, regardless of the perception of a general underdevelopment, there is a class that wants to ascend to a better quality of life and ensure a future position of the woman, doing that association through the design, glamour, style and art of fashion that is produced in Africa to a luxury international market. The collection results in simple and fluid lines, with a fusion of fabrics – lace, organza, silk and traditional African super wax – and textures – stones and embroidery placed by hand – in black, red and gold dresses.

Pedro Pedro

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Pedro Pedro presented “The lady in question” where the result is a bet on a divergence of shapes and materials coming from a brutalist solution, creating an informal but no less sophisticated look. The silhouettes are sinuous and elegant, with draperies effects and raw finishes. The materials go along with the contrasting vision, having opted for materials such as satin, jersey of silk and cotton which combine with nets and abstract lace that reinforce the unfinished look. The colors go from blue marine to brique, passing by black and white. The shoes are a fundamental piece of the Pedro Pedro collection: colorful, with irregular broidery and handmade braids with fabrics strips.

Piotr Drzal

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Piotr Drzal presented his Men Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The result was a collection that distinguishes for its apparent simplicity, easiness and modesty, with clean lines where is visible an urban and sporty inspiration. The colors present in the collection were khaki, red, white, midnight blue, grey, army green and black.

Aleksandar Protic

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Aleksandar Protic presented “Goddesses”, a collection that resulted in fluid and soft silhouettes, with a mixed of draped and more structured forms in materials such as cotton, mix. cotton/linen, silk, viscose and polyester. The colors used were off white, pearl, olive and black.

Dino Alves

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“My process – diary of a collection” is a collection inspired in the process of creating a collection or any other creative/artistic project that involves sketching, annotating, erasing, crumpling primary ideas, testing color combinations, shapes, dialogues that one often abandons but that help us to get to what we want to show. Dino Alves’ collection resulted in a silhouette that is Irregular with linear, poorly defined contours, fluid and structured in the same piece through tissue manipulation with random pleats that shrink parts of the shapes, with hems either very long and/or very short. The materials used were silk, cotton, viscose, linen, silk organza, cotton voiles, satin, cool wool, cupro and polyester in colors such as white, black, blue, red, dry green, pale pink, pearl, nude and multi-colored details.

All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa