Moda Lisboa S/S 17 | Morecco

Morecco Lisboa presents for Spring Summer 2017, it’s second full collection of clothes, jewellery and accessories.

A celebration of colours, textures and materials. João Magalhães, the brand’s designer, explored Buddhist and Tibetan costume, psychedelic and transcendental meditation, and even deep sea diving in the Komodo islands coming together to create a kaleidoscopic journey expressed through fluid tailoring, deconstructed knitwear and draping. In addition intricate handmade fastenings in gold, silver and pearls, and headpieces intended to transmit the idea of a utopian sea.

Particular attention paid to cut, construction and finish. Materials are as always the finest possible, with natural fibers and silks used throughout. Print takes as it’s source the Nudibranch. Check video for full show.

Moda Lisboa S/S 17 | Sangue Novo

Celebrating 25 years, Moda Lisboa claims “we are together”: We are together in the recognition of our heritage and the endless searching of new talents through the platform SANGUE NOVO (New Blood), a showcase presenting the work of young fashion designers graduated from Portuguese and international fashion schools. Carolina Machado, M Hka, Hermione Flynn, João Oliveira, Duarte, Inês Silva, Cátia Moreira, João Barriga, Micaela Sapinho, Daniela Ciolan e Sofiya Malichenko are the selected designers of this edition. Please check the video for the full show.

Like the previous editions, it was awarded a prize for the best collection: a Master Level Certificate in the Fashion Area, corresponding to an eight week workshop in Milan offered by the prestigious Fashion Academy, Domus Academy, and a 5000 euro scholarship awarded by Vulcano, official sponsor of ModaLisboa.

The Sangue Novo talents in competition were judged by a prestigious jury composed by Eduarda Abbondanza (President of ModaLisboa), Ricardo Preto (Fashion Designer), Sofia Lucas (Director of New Projects of GQ magazine), Anna Lottersberger (Domus Academy Head of Fashion Cluster) and Adriano Batista (Editor in chief of Fucking Young magazine).

João Oliveira was the winner of FashionClash award, João Barriga won the ModaLisboa award and a Duarte (Ana Duarte received the ModaLisboa’s honorable mention that enables her to present her work in the LAB platform.

According to the partnership of ModaLisboa and FashionClash, João Oliveira was invited to represent Portugal in the next edition of Dutch Fashion Festival, to be held in Maastricht, in June 2017.

ModaLisboa Kiss // Day Three

Kolovrat

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On the third day of ModaLisboa, Kolovrat fashion show was held at the gymnasium of the Portuguese Marine, which was a suited place for Kolovrat’s collection called “Your favourite team is playing” and where the mandatory requirement to the guests attending the show was to wear sneakers. The fashion show started with six basketball players wearing one-tone overalls from the AW 16/17 collection, where they, on the basketball field, show the fluidity and comfort of the pieces. After the referee called the quits, the fashion show itself started:  the pieces were mostly wool/cashemere and silk, in black and with notes of blues, yellows and natural tones.

“Your favourite team is playing” was a collection based in polarities: day and night, black and color, stillness and movement. Nature was one of the inspirations for the lines, details and silhouette of the collection, based primarily in organic lines and movement.

Apart from the colors and silhouette of the collection, crafted and intricate textures were mixed with wool and burel (highly hand crafted traditional wool which in this case is made by Ecolã) and were also used craft techniques like macramé, in t-shirts or skirt’s hems, a surprising detail that helps showcase the movement of the garment.

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AWAYTOMARS

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The last brand presenting their collection on the LAB platform for AW16/17 of ModaLisboa was AWAYTOMARS. The brand presented “AWAYTOMARS 446”, a collection that was the result of the brand’s identity: a collaboration between multiple creative people around the globe that contribute to create a single and cohesive collection.

The starting point for the collection was raw elements such as stone and metal; these elements were interpreted for the AWAYTOMARS community trough their online collaborative moodboard. That online interaction resulted in a collection where the color palette present in “AWAYTOMARS 446” was black, grey, white, copper and dry green, applied in a way that highlight and enhance the complexity that exists behind the simplest shapes, revealing the construction of the garments. Some signature details were the mix between drop shoulder and raglan sleeve, the geometrical lines in the pieces, placed in diagonal lines or cutouts, asymmetrical shapes and the transparency accomplished through the impermeable fabric. The music was composed by Marcelo Gerab and Gabriel Finotti.

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SayMyName

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“Electriccable” was the collection presented by SayMyName. The inspiration came from the effect that the lightning does in the sky on stormy days, as well as the huge amount of electric cables that dice the sky. Those references influence the prints and textures of the collection, as well as the asymmetrical lines of some of the pieces. Details as the godet was one of the ideas of the summer 2016 collection that were revisited and applied in the AW 16/17 collection.

Some pieces, such as the tubular dress, shirt dresses and paper-bag trousers, among others, where made using materials like felted neoprene, fantasy felt, padded, print anthracite jersey, poplin, textured mousseline and American fleece lined with silver. The color palette contemplated black, anthracite gray, white, red, blue sky and silver.

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Nadir Tati

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The theme for Nadir Tati’s collection was “A voz de Angola” (Angola’s voice). The designer’s AW 16/17 collection was delicate and refined, while still having Angolan roots that can be seen in her selection of fabrics and colors.

For women, a collection of evening gowns with drapes, embroideries, transparency, lace and African fabrics in red, gold and blue; for men, a more casual look in white with trims of African fabrics.

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Piotr Drzal

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Piotr Drzal presented “Nocturne”, a collection that took inspiration from the emotional connotations of the night in nature – a “precious habitat of emotions, feelings and unknown”.

Piotr Drzal presented a Men’s collection composed primarily by dark hues such as black, eggplant, grey, metallic and white, a direct reflection of his inspiration. The designer also presented interesting details throughout the collection such as the use of vertical zippers on the pockets of the shirt’s front, lateral seam and jacket’s arms, as well as an accent detail in jackets’ collars and cuffs, and the unexpected use of sequins in various garments.

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Filipe Faísca

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Filipe Faísca celebrated the ageless woman in his AW 16/17 collection “New Age”. The designer celebrated the fearless woman, the determined woman, the woman that becomes whatever or whomever she chooses to.

The collection was built with materials such as cotton, wool, mouton race, neoprene, silk, viscose and lace, with the presence of patterns accomplished with naprons and hand made patterns done through the manipulation of fabrics. The predominant colors were black, white, lime and sand and the designer had the support of Luvaria Ulisses for the gloves, André Ópticas for the glasses, Wolford for the lingerie and collants, and Christian Louboutin for the shoes.

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Dino Alves

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Dino Alves presented “New Kings”, a collection that it’s starting point was the world of upper class that live with wealth, luxury and ostentation and the irony that comes from doing a collection with those references in a reality of economic crisis. The designer visited the references of this world in order to create a new social class, “ruled by the richness in character, nobility in attitudes and actions, solidarity with the most disadvantaged: the value and integrity as human beings will make them the New Kings.”

The silhouette from “New Kings” primarily has a flared line with volume in some parts of the garments in materials such as wool, tweeds, cotton with polyester, neoprene, velvet, denim, cotton poplin, vinyl fabrics and viscose.  Some details of the collection are seams cut with forms of baroque decorative elements taken from palace interiors, furniture and other decorative pieces, overlapping panels with matching shapes to create embossing images, decorative details in macro manual stitches made with tissues and holes and embroidered motifs using the same technique, frills, ruffles, lavish laces and lacy collars.

The colors used throughout the collection were black, white, various shades of grey, green, rose quartz, blue, bordeaux, burgundy, orange, light blue, yellow, gold, camel, printed floral baroque indigo and brocades.

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Luis Carvalho

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“Cold as ice” was the theme for Luis Carvalho AW 16/17 collection, where the inspiration comes from the coldest Nordic landscapes.

The tranquility, purity and silence from the Nordic landscapes influenced the designer to choose lighter and more fluid shapes and colors such as white, pale pink and grey; at the same time, the ice crystals present in these landscapes, suggested straight lines and volume used on the silhouette, details and prints, as well as the colors black and eggplant. The materials used by Luis Carvalho were cotton, wool, satin, twills and leather/fur. The shoes were a collaboration with EUREKA and the sunglasses with FORAsunglasses.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa Kiss // Day Two

Olga Noronha

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Olga Noronha presented her “β CREATURES” collection on the LAB platform. Olga Noronha had as principal inspiration the beauty and dichotomy – delicacy/violence – that are known to the male Betta fish. The designer used materials such as porcelain, fish skin from cod, salmon and sea bass, corals, gemstones, crystals, natural pearls, gold leaf and stamped polyester to create wearable sculptures that reflect the creatures from which she takes inspiration as well as the environment where those creatures live in. The shoes were a result from the collaboration between the designer and Biblical Lust.

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Ricardo Andrez

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Ricardo Andrez presented “Stereo”, a collection based on color and how color is attached to life and its’ intensity, emotion and dimension. Ricardo Andrez explored color transitions between the chromatic borders, translated to the collection with a predominant neutral color palette – white, grey and black – with the addition of vivid colors such as pink, orange, green, purple and blue, applied in solid blocks or in wave-like prints. Some of the details in the collection were the extra-long sleeves, the fur applications, the sleeves’ cutouts, the zipper application on cuffs, pants and jackets and, of course, the prints and color palette. Other details from the collection were the shoes – the result from a collaboration between Ricardo Andrez and Melo – and the sunglasses from Vava.

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Rose Palhares

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Rose Palhares had her début on the LAB platform. The designer presented “Kiss from Rose”, a collection aligned with the theme for the 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa. “Kiss from Rose” was a collection that had a seductive, self-assured and passionate-about-life woman in mind, that dictate the use of laces and transparencies in the collection, as well as red, gold, blue, pink and champagne in form fitting silhouettes that complement the women’s body.

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Christophe Sauvat

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For AW 16/17 Christophe Sauvat presented a collection that reinforces the brand’s motto “One world, no boundaries”, travelling to the Nordic countries for inspiration. Staying true to the brand’s identity, Christophe Sauvat presented an eclectic collection yet appropriate to the urban and modern woman living in the city. The color palette present in the collection ranged from snow white, autumn browns and greens – a direct reflection of the Nordic landscapes – to black, that convey more versatility and elegance to the collection. The materials chosen vary from alpaca wool, leather and merino wool – for the warmer pieces – to cotton, faux astrakhan and silk – for the lighter pieces – embellished with embroideries and geometric patterns with pearls. The collection was completed with ethnic backpacks, embroidered clutches and practical cotton bags.

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Pedro Pedro

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Pedro Pedro presented “L’etrangère”, a youthful and relaxed collection with distinctive and voluminous silhouettes, layers of asymmetrical pieces and utilitarian and military influence on the coats. The overall feeling of the collection was unpretentious, referring us to a rural setting where exaggerated lengths were presented on sleeves and pants.

The designer presented a mix of materials, from wools, felts, cottons, linens, wool jerseys, quilted impermeable and check, in sober colors such as grey, beige, camel, black, khaki and shades of olive and neon green.

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Alexandra Moura

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“Woman” was the collection that Alexandra Moura presented on the last edition of ModaLisboa. The starting point of the collection was the work – sketches, scrapbooks and collages – of the artist Anohni, as well as the dramatic and theatrical charge present in her work.

“Woman” resulted in deconstructed classic silhouettes, with details brought from ancient times and from undergarments of both genders, that used as vehicle luxurious jacquard fabrics in voluminous coats and blankets, embellished with ruffles, ribbons and bows.

The color palette in the collection contemplated black, white, wine, blue, camel and sand tones.

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Carlos Gil

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Carlos Gil’s AW 16/17 collection was “Eclectic”. As the name refers, the collection mixed patterns, colors, textures and styles to provide a new look at elegance.

In general, thee looks  were composed by unusual layer combinations that, at the same time, have vintage reminiscences, clean cuts and sporty details, creating a bold and elegant sportswear chic look.

Carlos Gil played with different fabrics and textures, as glitters, lace, fur and patterns, in blazers, coats, blouses, sweaters and pleated wrap skirts to achieve the eclectic aesthetic proposed for this season collection.

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Morecco

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Morecco Lisboa presented for AW 16/17 its’ first full collection of garments.

The collection presented took as inspiration voyages through Turkey, Morocco and Korean cinema as well as the glamour of the nightclubs of New York and Paris in the 70s. The result was a celebration of color, textures and materials, where the color palette ranged from black, grey, white, orange and pale yellow and green in materials such as silk, fur and reused antique Chinese and Japanese fabric panels with fringe trims.

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Miguel Vieira

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Miguel Vieira presented “Color”, a collection where color takes center stage and where the designer was influence for the meanings and emotions attached with every color he selected : the mystery, power and elegance of caviar black; the calm, loyalty, wisdom and confidence of the dark navy blue; olympian blue, blend of cobalt and sapphire hues; the innocence, purity and perfection of marshmallow white; the optimism, joy and energy of mustard yellow.

The materials used by Miguel Vieira were neoprene, custom fabrics, quilted fabrics, cloth, silk crepe and fur, that were applied, for women, in structured and informal lines or voluminous lines that do not hide femininity with long and extra long heights; For men, structured suits and impeccably cut trousers.

The collection was completed with braided skin handbags, scarves and bracelets.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa Kiss // Day One

The theme for this season of ModaLisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week was KISS; it was ModaLisboa’s 25th anniversary, which was a time to celebrate and to share the joy and the love for fashion.

Banda

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ModaLisboa’s fashion shows started March 10th at 6 p.m. with Banda, by the hands of Tiago Loureiro. He presented “Brazil Not Revisited” for his AW 16/17 collection, where he took inspiration from three Brazilian modernist artists: Oswald de Andrade, Lina Bo Bardi and Mendes da Rocha. From the first, the anthropophagy, the rite of cannibalism practiced by the Brazilian indigenous tribes present in his Manifesto Antropógrafo (1928); From the second, the interior/exterior ambiguous relationship of the artist architectural work and from the third, the dazzling strongholds through a more subversive space usage. “Brazil Not Revisited” is the result of Tiago Loureiro’s interpretation of the work of these artists as well as his own experience of growing up surrounded by the culture, arts, tv and Brazilian history on a daily basis, due to the strong links between Portugal and the ex-colony, Brazil. The collection resulted with men and women’s clothing, where a mix of symmetrical and asymmetrical shapes are used in fabrics that allow the pieces of clothing to move and have fluidity. The predominant colors used were red, shades of grey and camel, with notes of metallic, white, blue and where is also very notorious the use of print in several looks.

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David Catalán

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David Catalán presented “Club Ska 67”, where he reinterpreted two urban cultures: the Suedhead movement, which shares similarities with early London’s Skinhead culture and another urban movement from the London 70’s. The result was an urban and current collection, where the silhouettes were a contrast between rigid and fluid shapes where gender takes second stage, a reflection of the similarity between the male and female clothing of the urban cultures used as inspiration.

The color palette was a reflection of one of the most remarkable bands of that time, The Who, where white, black, yellow, red and blue take center stage as solid colors on the pieces of clothing or through the application in sashes and lines of the different colors in order to create various prints throughout multiple pieces. One detail that was also present in most pieces is the parallel vertical and/or horizontal lines made of stiches that contribute to the cohesion of the collection.

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Tânia Nicole

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Tânia Nicole presented “Melting”, a collection that took inspiration from the work of British artist Alex Chinneck, who specializes in architectural installations featuring optical illusions. His main projects include a row of upside-down shops in London and a house of wax bricks that will slowly melt over the course of a summer.

In “Melting”, the silhouettes and details of the collection such as the use of garments like overalls and upside-down jeans were a direct influence of the architectural side of the Chinneck’s projects, where Tânia Nicole interpreted into a workwear look associated to the work on the construction industry. Tânia also used multiple denim tones simulating a gradient effect in an attempt to mimic the melting process of the house of wax bricks project as well as vertical tears on the front or on the back in several pieces, resulting on unexpected details throughout the collection. Beanies, turtleneck, extra-long sleeves and rolled up jeans were also design choices made by Tânia Nicole in “Melting”.

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Carolina Machado

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For AW 16/17, Carolina Machado presented “Open”, an attempt of exploration of an identity; the definition of self-being, it’s authenticity, the several elements, events and changes that influence directly or indirectly it’s personification, resulting in a more intuitive act. In this sense, the collection conveys a certain softness and femininity, still influenced by some details and masculine lines. Allied to this ideal, is a surrealist, psychedelic and sensory work by the director René Laloux: “La Planète Sauvage”, 1973.

“Open” explores the silhouette of the 70’s, as well as the changing shapes of the characters called “Draggs”, an extraterrestrial race with red-eyes and blue skin from René Laloux’s work mentioned above, with high waist cropped wide leg pants, trumpet sleeves and deep V necklines.

Aside from the 70’s presence on the silhouettes, one of the main features in the collection was the application of eyelets, either along the necklines or as a standout feature on the pieces; an expression of the importance of clarity and transparency of self-being.

Carolina Machado’s collection featured a palette of earthy colors as oranges and burgundies and a range of deep blues and black.

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Ruben Damásio

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Inspired in the “Rumspringa”, which means “wander around”, Ruben Damásio presented a collection with the same name; a collection that portrays the time when young Amish, aged sixteen to twenty-one, break away from the community and move to bigger cities to explore new sensations and realities. The collection resulted on the mix of the two realities: the experiences in daring, urban and modern environments that add more knowledge and new values, and their past inside the Amish community. The first was translated into the collection with the use of bold colors such as the yellow, seen in almost whole looks and the blue, present in pops of color on socks, trims and linings; the second was represented by the black, grey and beige present in the collection as well as in the hats used, that evoke a dry, dark scenario, evidenced in their traditional Amish costumes.

The collection used mostly natural fibers, such as cotton, wool and cashmere and had the collaboration of Solaris’ sunglasses.

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Patrick de Pádua

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Patrick de Pádua presented “On the Hunt”, a collection that was not only a reference to the hunting universe but also a reflection of the constant search of the individuals for something that completes them. The collection explored this search for a feeling of personal realization, satisfaction and comfort in their own skin.

The result was a streetwear collection where the coats and specially the trench coat take center stage, feeding the idea that clothes are shelters that provide protection. “On the Hunt” used materials such as burel, leather, fur and impermeable in a color palette that ranged from black to beige passing through shades of green and grey.

The looks were complete with fur hats and trims, and sneakers that result from the collaboration with DKODE.

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Cristina Real

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“Miles” was the theme for Cristina Real’s AW 16/17 collection. “Miles” was designed with the beginning of a trip in mind and the freedom and adrenaline that comes with it; where there is no place to rules, no place to fear and no place to boundaries; where the wind breeze involves you and the colors and movement of nature report us to spaces, stories and distant memories.

“Miles” intended to bring some of that vision to the urban reality using colors such as white, shades of yellow, beige, bronze, brown, blue, shades of pink, bordeaux, red, grey and black, and the materials ranged from neoprene to neoprene with rubber texture and with velvet texture, matte sequins, synthetic fur with reflex, texture organzas, bouclé knit, faux fur and faux fur with stripes.

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Inês Duvale

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On this 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa, menswear designer Inês Duvale presented “VOODOO”. “VOODOO” was a collection that came from an abstract concept, a reality where we believe without seeing, where the sacred exists for unexplained reasons; we believe in what we want to believe because the verb “believe” comes as an opportunity to change and introduces the arrival of new perspectives. The designer choosed this theme because it allowed her to make her own interpretation and be guided by her own imagination. The collection resulted in a mix of fabrics such as leather, fur, wool and polyester ranging in color from black to white, passing through burgundy, yellow, green and purple. There were also interesting details in Inês Duvale pieces such as metallic applications like buckles, eyelets and shirt collar’s adornments.

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Sara Santos

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Menswear designer Sara Santos presented “Overlap”, a collection strongly inspired by the work of Portuguese artist “Vhils” and the period that reports to the first memories of this street art – the 80s and 90s. Through the exploration of the experimentalism and the aesthetic of the vandalism in urban environments, this kind of art was a Man’s need to express themselves in their context.

As well as our social environment, we are also composed of overlapping layers. This ideology was transported to Sara Santos’ collection where she explored the material by layers. The main material in her collection was denim, that she used in different shades and finishes, with raw trims or with the application of images that refer to “Vhils” work.

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Nair Xavier

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“Kalymnos” was the collection Nair Xavier presented on the past edition of ModaLisboa, opening up the LAB platform. She took inspiration from the Aegean Sea, the sponges and the aquatic fossil biodiversity to provide content to construction, color palette and materials, and used this collection as a tribute to Sponge Diving, an extinct trade on the Greek Island of Kalymnos.

The decade of 1960 and its cool attitude are also a reference to the silhouette of the collection and the color palette was composed by tones of nude, white, taupe and beige, with notes of black, red cast brown, charcoal grey and denim blue, applied in materials such as wool, synthetic leather and fur.

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David Ferreira

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ModaLisboa 25th anniversary was David Ferreira debut at Lisboa Fashion Week. He presented “Opulent Child” on the LAB platform and intended that his collection reflected today’s society – an overindulgent society where image and the perception of such defines who we are – blurring the lines between Fashion and Art. David Ferreira AW 16/17 used as mainstream references Pink Ladies, Heathers, Clueless, Plastics, Gossip Girl, Scream Queens, and also, in a more extravagant and opulent look, the royal clique of Versailles, Queen Marie Antoinette and duchess of Polignac, and personalities such as Marchesa Luisa Casati and Scarlett O’Hara from “Gone with the Wind”.

David Ferreira used a strong yet simple game of colors such as shades of pink and red on white and choosed materials as wool Melton, that was beaded, boned and conjugated with rabbit skin and brushed Tibetan lambskin to play with volume of the pieces exploring new silhouettes, also present on the use of tulle as trims and ruffles. Double-faced silk satin was also folded and stitched to create a strong visual and texture effect in the collection.

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Valentim Quaresma

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Valentim Quaresma presented “Domination”, a collection that took inspiration from the emotional charge domination and other control situations possess, where Valentim Quaresma intended to create a collection that showed the rise of self-confidence that a dominant position brings.

The theme was translated in the use of elements that suggest triumph and sovereignty, in an harmony between inflexibility and agility accomplished with the use of black and white resins and pexiglass on elements that resembled shark’s teeth, human bones, stuffed animal heads and baroque decoration elements in accessories such as belts, cufflinks, necklaces, cuffs and headpieces. Valentim Quaresma also used brass, aluminum, cotton twill, leather and synthetic materials on the jewelry and pieces of clothing.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa