ModaLisboa Kiss // Day Two

Olga Noronha

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Olga Noronha presented her “β CREATURES” collection on the LAB platform. Olga Noronha had as principal inspiration the beauty and dichotomy – delicacy/violence – that are known to the male Betta fish. The designer used materials such as porcelain, fish skin from cod, salmon and sea bass, corals, gemstones, crystals, natural pearls, gold leaf and stamped polyester to create wearable sculptures that reflect the creatures from which she takes inspiration as well as the environment where those creatures live in. The shoes were a result from the collaboration between the designer and Biblical Lust.

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Ricardo Andrez

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Ricardo Andrez presented “Stereo”, a collection based on color and how color is attached to life and its’ intensity, emotion and dimension. Ricardo Andrez explored color transitions between the chromatic borders, translated to the collection with a predominant neutral color palette – white, grey and black – with the addition of vivid colors such as pink, orange, green, purple and blue, applied in solid blocks or in wave-like prints. Some of the details in the collection were the extra-long sleeves, the fur applications, the sleeves’ cutouts, the zipper application on cuffs, pants and jackets and, of course, the prints and color palette. Other details from the collection were the shoes – the result from a collaboration between Ricardo Andrez and Melo – and the sunglasses from Vava.

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Rose Palhares

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On the second day of ModaLisboa, Rose Palhares had her début on the LAB platform. The designer presented “Kiss from Rose”, a collection aligned with the theme for the 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa. “Kiss from Rose” was a collection that had a seductive, self-assured and passionate-about-life woman in mind, that dictate the use of laces and transparencies in the collection, as well as red, gold, blue, pink and champagne in form fitting silhouettes that complement the women’s body.

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Christophe Sauvat

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For AW 16/17 Christophe Sauvat presented a collection that reinforces the brand’s motto “One world, no boundaries”, travelling to the Nordic countries for inspiration. Staying true to the brand’s identity, Christophe Sauvat presented an eclectic collection yet appropriate to the urban and modern woman living in the city. The color palette present in the collection ranged from snow white, autumn browns and greens – a direct reflection of the Nordic landscapes – to black, that convey more versatility and elegance to the collection. The materials chosen vary from alpaca wool, leather and merino wool – for the warmer pieces – to cotton, faux astrakhan and silk – for the lighter pieces – embellished with embroideries and geometric patterns with pearls. The collection was completed with ethnic backpacks, embroidered clutches and practical cotton bags.

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Pedro Pedro

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Pedro Pedro presented “L’etrangère”, a youthful and relaxed collection with distinctive and voluminous silhouettes, layers of asymmetrical pieces and utilitarian and military influence on the coats. The overall feeling of the collection was unpretentious, referring us to a rural setting where exaggerated lengths were presented on sleeves and pants.

The designer presented a mix of materials, from wools, felts, cottons, linens, wool jerseys, quilted impermeable and check, in sober colors such as grey, beige, camel, black, khaki and shades of olive and neon green.

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Alexandra Moura

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“Woman” was the collection that Alexandra Moura presented on the last edition of ModaLisboa. The starting point of the collection was the work – sketches, scrapbooks and collages – of the artist Anohni, as well as the dramatic and theatrical charge present in her work.

“Woman” resulted in deconstructed classic silhouettes, with details brought from ancient times and from undergarments of both genders, that used as vehicle luxurious jacquard fabrics in voluminous coats and blankets, embellished with ruffles, ribbons and bows.

The color palette in the collection contemplated black, white, wine, blue, camel and sand tones.

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Carlos Gil

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Carlos Gil’s AW 16/17 collection was “Eclectic”. As the name refers, the collection mixed patterns, colors, textures and styles to provide a new look at elegance.

In general, thee looks  were composed by unusual layer combinations that, at the same time, have vintage reminiscences, clean cuts and sporty details, creating a bold and elegant sportswear chic look.

Carlos Gil played with different fabrics and textures, as glitters, lace, fur and patterns, in blazers, coats, blouses, sweaters and pleated wrap skirts to achieve the eclectic aesthetic proposed for this season collection.

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Morecco

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Morecco Lisboa presented for AW 16/17 its’ first full collection of garments.

The collection presented took as inspiration voyages through Turkey, Morocco and Korean cinema as well as the glamour of the nightclubs of New York and Paris in the 70s. The result was a celebration of color, textures and materials, where the color palette ranged from black, grey, white, orange and pale yellow and green in materials such as silk, fur and reused antique Chinese and Japanese fabric panels with fringe trims.

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Miguel Vieira

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Miguel Vieira presented “Color”, a collection where color takes center stage and where the designer was influence for the meanings and emotions attached with every color he selected : the mystery, power and elegance of caviar black; the calm, loyalty, wisdom and confidence of the dark navy blue; olympian blue, blend of cobalt and sapphire hues; the innocence, purity and perfection of marshmallow white; the optimism, joy and energy of mustard yellow.

The materials used by Miguel Vieira were neoprene, custom fabrics, quilted fabrics, cloth, silk crepe and fur, that were applied, for women, in structured and informal lines or voluminous lines that do not hide femininity with long and extra long heights; For men, structured suits and impeccably cut trousers.

The collection was completed with braided skin handbags, scarves and bracelets.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa – The Timers // Day 2

Nair Xavier

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“Ermo” is a reflection of the dryness of the African deserts and Africa as the cradle of the world and foundation of the human conscience. Nair Xavier’s collection also uses as inspiration the lost Civilization of Ancient Egypt marked by development and wisdom and also utilitarian clothing, which reflects on the aesthetic and proportions of the collection. “Ermo” starts with the use of neutral colors, then passes by a mixture of geometrical patterns and finishes with strong warms tones.

Olga Noronha

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“Hair|lucination” is Olga Noronha’s collection. This collection emphasizes the lack and loss of hair due to Alopecia and Chemotherapy secondary effects. The result is a collection that uses an abundance of artificial hair, in various different forms, shapes and colors, almost resulting in a “quasi-(capillary) hallucination”. The footwear seen on the show, which resulted of a partnership between Olga Noronha and Reebok, was auctioned during and after the show and all the profits will revert to IPO.

Ricardo Andrez

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Ricardo Andrez presented “In-between”, a collection that is thought around the concept of transparency; transparency as a host and a vehicle for color, but also a reflection about how people can be characterized as “transparent” and how that is an indication of someone’s character. This resulted in a collection where is chosen what to show and what to hide, playing with transparency and opacity, using either man-made materials or natural elements, ranging from black, grey and white, with notes of silver, blue, lime-green and yellow.

Christophe Sauvat

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Christophe Sauvat is a brand that designs for a modern, cosmopolitan woman, who travels the globe; that translates into the brand’s collections with eclectic prints, also seen in parts of this Spring/Summer 2016 collection. It is also very present in this collection the use of a diversity of colors – black, white, blue, orange, pink, red – textures (cotton, gauze, leather) and an amazing application work with beads and leather, which once more takes us back to the Christophe Sauvat woman.

Valentim Quaresma

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Through the use of materials such as resins, brass, anodized aluminum, copper, turquoises, polyester, cotton thread and neoprene, Valentim Quaresma presented “Habitat”, a collection where a fine line separates accessories from clothing through the creation of an imaginary ecosystem inspired by animal architecture and the possible wildlife that would live in it. Kitsch is revisited and transposed to an underground universe where turquoise, red, black and metals are the predominant colors.

Saymyname

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Catarina Sequeira presents “Reincarnation of gender through art”, a collection that its start point is a reflection about gender and how art have been exploring the theme, taking in consideration the work of Kimido Yoshida – Japanese painter and photographer-, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie – Nigerian author of the book “We should all be Feminist”- and Sascha Braunig – Canadian surrealist artist. Catarina Sequeira’s intention was not to be literal with her references; instead, the collection shows some abstract shapes that force the viewer to consider the figure in lieu of uncanny pattern. The result is a high-functioning but also unpredictable collection with hemmed stripes that create organic 3D shapes, the painterly styles, shorts and skirts punctuated by ruffles. The materials used were knitted silk, nylon, cotton with metallic print, painterly nappa, changeant, seersucker viscose and printed muslin in colors such as black, white, blue indigo, metallic blue, coral and mustard.

Miguel Vieira

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In “Mondrian”, the graphic expression was the direct source of inspiration of Miguel Vieira’s collection. A white base, a primary color (cobalt blue) and black were the main elements for the graphic inspiration of the collection. Mondrian’s paintings – abstract and minimalist, with geometric shapes and demonstrations of color blocks – were translated into the collection through fabrics manually woven to form patterns that remind us of his paintings. The abstract and minimalism are also transported to the silhouette and modeling of the collection either with sporty details, or with a strong sartorial presence, the balance is found in the Nobility and in the Informal, in Geometry and in Fluidity. The materials present in the collection were mesh, grosgrain, silk crepe, perforated leather, cottons, net with leather applications, manufactured braided fabrics, pure virgin wool and structured patterned fabrics.

Ricardo Preto

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This Spring/Summer 2016, Ricardo Preto presented “Effortless”, a collection that was thought for a traveled woman and that uses light materials such as silk, cotton and modal in fluid, long and draped silhouettes to achieve an effortless chic look. Also Ricardo Preto due to the transparencies and the asymmetrical layers that he uses in his looks, it comes across the androgyny and lady lingerie that he used as inspiration. The colors featured in the collection were blue, green, red, nude, black and white.

Alexandra Moura

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Alexandra Moura presented “the miracle of the roses”, a collection where the inspiration comes from a tale that crossed centuries until today – “and the King saw roses out of season”. The intention is that the tale will live, change and be brought from a cruel world, dominated by jealousy and greed, into a new world – the future – ruled by peace and kindness. In this collection, silhouette and details were worked to retell the story, in a continuous change as if they itself were a miracle. Holiness is revealed in the details that, metamorphosed, bring a whole new language to this ancient tale. Heavy fabrics are unified with the more ethereal in colors such as pink, red, black, white and blue.

 

All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa