On the third day of ModaLisboa, Kolovrat fashion show was held at the gymnasium of the Portuguese Marine, which was a suited place for Kolovrat’s collection called “Your favourite team is playing” and where the mandatory requirement to the guests attending the show was to wear sneakers. The fashion show started with six basketball players wearing one-tone overalls from the AW 16/17 collection, where they, on the basketball field, show the fluidity and comfort of the pieces. After the referee called the quits, the fashion show itself started: the pieces were mostly wool/cashemere and silk, in black and with notes of blues, yellows and natural tones.
“Your favourite team is playing” was a collection based in polarities: day and night, black and color, stillness and movement. Nature was one of the inspirations for the lines, details and silhouette of the collection, based primarily in organic lines and movement.
Apart from the colors and silhouette of the collection, crafted and intricate textures were mixed with wool and burel (highly hand crafted traditional wool which in this case is made by Ecolã) and were also used craft techniques like macramé, in t-shirts or skirt’s hems, a surprising detail that helps showcase the movement of the garment.
The last brand presenting their collection on the LAB platform for AW16/17 of ModaLisboa was AWAYTOMARS. The brand presented “AWAYTOMARS 446”, a collection that was the result of the brand’s identity: a collaboration between multiple creative people around the globe that contribute to create a single and cohesive collection.
The starting point for the collection was raw elements such as stone and metal; these elements were interpreted for the AWAYTOMARS community trough their online collaborative moodboard. That online interaction resulted in a collection where the color palette present in “AWAYTOMARS 446” was black, grey, white, copper and dry green, applied in a way that highlight and enhance the complexity that exists behind the simplest shapes, revealing the construction of the garments. Some signature details were the mix between drop shoulder and raglan sleeve, the geometrical lines in the pieces, placed in diagonal lines or cutouts, asymmetrical shapes and the transparency accomplished through the impermeable fabric. The music was composed by Marcelo Gerab and Gabriel Finotti.
“Electriccable” was the collection presented by SayMyName. The inspiration came from the effect that the lightning does in the sky on stormy days, as well as the huge amount of electric cables that dice the sky. Those references influence the prints and textures of the collection, as well as the asymmetrical lines of some of the pieces. Details as the godet was one of the ideas of the summer 2016 collection that were revisited and applied in the AW 16/17 collection.
Some pieces, such as the tubular dress, shirt dresses and paper-bag trousers, among others, where made using materials like felted neoprene, fantasy felt, padded, print anthracite jersey, poplin, textured mousseline and American fleece lined with silver. The color palette contemplated black, anthracite gray, white, red, blue sky and silver.
The theme for Nadir Tati’s collection was “A voz de Angola” (Angola’s voice). The designer’s AW 16/17 collection was delicate and refined, while still having Angolan roots that can be seen in her selection of fabrics and colors.
For women, a collection of evening gowns with drapes, embroideries, transparency, lace and African fabrics in red, gold and blue; for men, a more casual look in white with trims of African fabrics.
Piotr Drzal presented “Nocturne”, a collection that took inspiration from the emotional connotations of the night in nature – a “precious habitat of emotions, feelings and unknown”.
Piotr Drzal presented a Men’s collection composed primarily by dark hues such as black, eggplant, grey, metallic and white, a direct reflection of his inspiration. The designer also presented interesting details throughout the collection such as the use of vertical zippers on the pockets of the shirt’s front, lateral seam and jacket’s arms, as well as an accent detail in jackets’ collars and cuffs, and the unexpected use of sequins in various garments.
Filipe Faísca celebrated the ageless woman in his AW 16/17 collection “New Age”. The designer celebrated the fearless woman, the determined woman, the woman that becomes whatever or whomever she chooses to.
The collection was built with materials such as cotton, wool, mouton race, neoprene, silk, viscose and lace, with the presence of patterns accomplished with naprons and hand made patterns done through the manipulation of fabrics. The predominant colors were black, white, lime and sand and the designer had the support of Luvaria Ulisses for the gloves, André Ópticas for the glasses, Wolford for the lingerie and collants, and Christian Louboutin for the shoes.
Dino Alves presented “New Kings”, a collection that it’s starting point was the world of upper class that live with wealth, luxury and ostentation and the irony that comes from doing a collection with those references in a reality of economic crisis. The designer visited the references of this world in order to create a new social class, “ruled by the richness in character, nobility in attitudes and actions, solidarity with the most disadvantaged: the value and integrity as human beings will make them the New Kings.”
The silhouette from “New Kings” primarily has a flared line with volume in some parts of the garments in materials such as wool, tweeds, cotton with polyester, neoprene, velvet, denim, cotton poplin, vinyl fabrics and viscose. Some details of the collection are seams cut with forms of baroque decorative elements taken from palace interiors, furniture and other decorative pieces, overlapping panels with matching shapes to create embossing images, decorative details in macro manual stitches made with tissues and holes and embroidered motifs using the same technique, frills, ruffles, lavish laces and lacy collars.
The colors used throughout the collection were black, white, various shades of grey, green, rose quartz, blue, bordeaux, burgundy, orange, light blue, yellow, gold, camel, printed floral baroque indigo and brocades.
“Cold as ice” was the theme for Luis Carvalho AW 16/17 collection, where the inspiration comes from the coldest Nordic landscapes.
The tranquility, purity and silence from the Nordic landscapes influenced the designer to choose lighter and more fluid shapes and colors such as white, pale pink and grey; at the same time, the ice crystals present in these landscapes, suggested straight lines and volume used on the silhouette, details and prints, as well as the colors black and eggplant. The materials used by Luis Carvalho were cotton, wool, satin, twills and leather/fur. The shoes were a collaboration with EUREKA and the sunglasses with FORAsunglasses.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
“In the last edition of ModaLisboa, we sailed to the Cape of Good Hope. This season, we face the sea monster head on with a strong urge to be tied to the helm.” In this Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Nuno Gama uses as inspiration the sail Portuguese did around the Cape of Good Hope, in search of the incredible Africa, and across the immense Indian Ocean to the silent Asian beauty of blossoming almond trees, using all that Portuguese saw in this travel as elements of his design. Along with this, he recovered Dandyism, through tailor-made, personalized and unique pieces where we see the permanence of luxury and color, and the renewal of the everlasting classics, that is present on the shirts, ribbons, kerchiefs and ties.
Filipe Faísca presents “Now”, a collection that represents the strength we have to experience life that is in a constant change, with all of our uncertainties, dreams and social demands. But in the end, we will arrive where we are supposed to. This concept translated into the collection in a fluid, oversize and layered silhouette in materials such as silk, viscose, neoprene, leather and lace. The colors used in “Now” were mid-day white, eclipse black, desert dust, apple green, jade blue and coral.
“Invitation for coffee” is the collection Lidija Kolovrat presented for Spring/Summer 2016. She uses her childhood memories and experiences as inspiration for this collection: the “patterns” left by the coffee in the bottom of the cup and the women who talked about these stains, foreseeing happenings and life situations which improved Lidija’s connection with the Universe and the meanings of its abstract nature. The silhouettes resulted of the combination between the abstract and the composition of worked circular shapes and refined “classical” lines, evolving into monochromatic tones of black and white, with a touch of blue, introduced through the original artworks of coffee elements.
“Souls of Africa” is a homage to all African women that, regardless of the perception of a general underdevelopment, there is a class that wants to ascend to a better quality of life and ensure a future position of the woman, doing that association through the design, glamour, style and art of fashion that is produced in Africa to a luxury international market. The collection results in simple and fluid lines, with a fusion of fabrics – lace, organza, silk and traditional African super wax – and textures – stones and embroidery placed by hand – in black, red and gold dresses.
Pedro Pedro presented “The lady in question” where the result is a bet on a divergence of shapes and materials coming from a brutalist solution, creating an informal but no less sophisticated look. The silhouettes are sinuous and elegant, with draperies effects and raw finishes. The materials go along with the contrasting vision, having opted for materials such as satin, jersey of silk and cotton which combine with nets and abstract lace that reinforce the unfinished look. The colors go from blue marine to brique, passing by black and white. The shoes are a fundamental piece of the Pedro Pedro collection: colorful, with irregular broidery and handmade braids with fabrics strips.
Piotr Drzal presented his Men Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The result was a collection that distinguishes for its apparent simplicity, easiness and modesty, with clean lines where is visible an urban and sporty inspiration. The colors present in the collection were khaki, red, white, midnight blue, grey, army green and black.
Aleksandar Protic presented “Goddesses”, a collection that resulted in fluid and soft silhouettes, with a mixed of draped and more structured forms in materials such as cotton, mix. cotton/linen, silk, viscose and polyester. The colors used were off white, pearl, olive and black.
“My process – diary of a collection” is a collection inspired in the process of creating a collection or any other creative/artistic project that involves sketching, annotating, erasing, crumpling primary ideas, testing color combinations, shapes, dialogues that one often abandons but that help us to get to what we want to show. Dino Alves’ collection resulted in a silhouette that is Irregular with linear, poorly defined contours, fluid and structured in the same piece through tissue manipulation with random pleats that shrink parts of the shapes, with hems either very long and/or very short. The materials used were silk, cotton, viscose, linen, silk organza, cotton voiles, satin, cool wool, cupro and polyester in colors such as white, black, blue, red, dry green, pale pink, pearl, nude and multi-colored details.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa