ModaLisboa – The Timers // Day 1

ModaLisboa is one of the most anticipated fashion events in Portugal and takes place in Portugal’s capital, Lisbon. ModaLisboa is a three day fashion event and it is a place where not only the work of the most known portuguese fashion designers is presented, but also the young and newly graduated ones.

The Timers (the theme for Spring/Summer 2016) took place from October 9th to October 11th and started off with the platform SANGUE NOVO (Young Blood). SANGUE NOVO is where the work of young and emerging designers from fashion courses of national and international schools is presented. The designers selected to showcase their work this season were Tânia Nicole, Cristina Real, Banda, Rúben Damásio, Patrick de Pádua, Carolina Machado, Sara Santos, David Catalán, Carlotaoms and Inês Duvale. Also on the first day of ModaLisboa AWAYTOMARS, Catarina Oliveira, Luis Carvalho and Carlos Gil showcase their collections.

Tânia Nicole

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Tânia Nicole presented “Individuality”, a collection where the silhouettes were inspired by “Man’s Dress Reform Party” group and the color palette and the clothes design by the 1920’s posters of Russian Constructivist El Lissitzky.  The group mentioned above advocated new aesthetic and social ideals, promoting health, comfort, individuality and practicality through the use of washable materials, larger and comfortable underwear and clothes such as shorts, kilts and sandals for warmer weather. Both references are very present in Tânia Nicole’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection, from her choice of colors – grey, black, blue, white and notes of red –  to the design of the clothes itself – typologies, how the pieces are buttoned, proportions, materials and the use of stripes.

Cristina Real

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“Disforme” is the name of Cristina Real’s collection. The concept comes from the transition from a natural state to a city universe, where the connection between different environments leads to a relaxed deformity. On the search to capture an image on a moving object/situation/society, the accuracy of what is captured is dubious; it is always an exploration and a transformation of that image that is retained, which make that nothing gets restricted to the original idea. The color palette of “Disforme” includes white, beige, yellow, dark yellow, blue, red, rose, green and black and the materials seen in the collection range from sequins to nobuck, glitter, mousseline, neoprene, satin, napa and organza; colors and materials that report us to velocity times, adrenaline and where everything moves at the speed of light.

Banda

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“Cavalo Dado” is a search of the brand’s designer Tiago Loureiro to create a more appealing product to his clients, with the injection of more graphic elements, more light and more life with a streetwear approach to his design. The core of the collections relies on the existent intimacy between man and space, being the latter represented here by the city. Considering that the configuration of space has a tremendous impact in the perception and individual’s state of mind, the collection itself is metaphorically analyzing the capacity man has to adapt. The color palette varies from white to orange, from blue to powder white. It’s also to relevant to point out the presence of raw hemlines, deconstruction of button-downs and also the print of the traditional Lisbon tram in multiple pieces of the collection.

Rúben Damásio

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With the high temperatures in mind, “H2O Proof” is the theme for Rúben Damásio’s collection. Water takes center stage, the same way it happens during spring and summer. Fabrics like mousselines and sequins where chosen to mimic and enhance the natural characteristics of the water such as lightness, transparency and sparkle. It was also used in the collection materials such as cotton twills, linen and polyester to provide contrast with the materials mentioned above. The color palette ranged from white to black, passing by shades of grey and blue.

Patrick de Pádua

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Patrick de Pádua’s “Silêncio (silence)” is a result of introspection, reflection, a valley of silence; it is a search for tranquility and quietness. The collection combines a streetwear approach with sportswear elements inspired by the 90’s baseball uniform where colors such as shades of white with grey and bright yellow details are featured. The strongly sporty silhouette exudes a sense of lightness, freedom and comfort due not only for the cut of the pieces, but also due to the choice of fabrics such as mesh and other materials that translate as light weight fabrics.

Carolina Machado

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“Bare” is the collection where the concept of anthropocentrism is the starting point; Man and the human body itself were strip down of their technological surroundings and used as inspiration, giving room to appreciate the natural elements and draw attention for specific parts of the human body either by the cuts on the clothes or the shape of the strips of fabric in some pieces. Shades of blue with notes of beige as seen in Peter MacDonald’s photograph of the over flown Eyre river in Australia, are the colors featured in Carolina Machado’s collection and fabrics used were denim, linen and bird’s eye.

Sara Santos

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Taking inspiration from the traditional style of 1960’s Mod culture “the rebels without a cause”, Sara Santo’s “Teentakeover” results in a fusion of street and sportswear looks where blue, white, grey and black are the predominant colors with notes of red and orange. The silhouettes featured in the collection are also inspired by these nonconformists, radicals and revolutionaries through the mix of contrasting pieces with oversized and simple silhouettes, waterproof parkas and repetition of elements.

David Catalán

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David Catalán “Prom” is a collection that revolves around the emblematic prom night: the clothes, the shine of the fabrics, the lights. The result is a collection with sporty looks with festive fabrics in minimalistic silhouettes, youthful and preppy details inspired by the 70’s and straight and diagonal cuts with slightly flowing lines that create an effect of layers and volume. The colors used in “prom” were black, white, rose dancing queen and green quarterback.

CARLOTAOMS

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CARLOTAOMS presents “Allegory”, a collection that is intended to be the visual representation of the creative process of the two designers behind the brand: Elisabet Carlota and Elisenda Oms. Something that once was an invisible abstract idea comes to life through the straight lines, the patterns, the embroidery and the luminosity of the yellow, beside the brand identity colors’ black and white.

Inês Duvale

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“La Résistance” is a collection that takes inspiration from the power of all revolutions and all the people through history who were forced to make History. The colors present in Inês Duvale’s collection are black, white, red and blue in fabrics like leather and embellishments such as fringes.

AWAYTOMARS

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AWAYTOMARS, a self-entitled disruptive online platform that seeks alternative forms of interaction in the fashion system and that gives people all over the world the opportunity of co-design in the brand’s collections, presented “Perennial 2”, a collection that investigates the dynamic between time, ephemeral and consumption. The colors present throughout the collection were blue, shades of grey, black, red and notes of white.

Catarina Oliveira

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“Savage Mind” is a collection that intended to represent the victory of human instincts over conscience’s imposed limits through the use of transparencies and light fabrics and Ana Lira’s prints, who are one of the most important parts of the collection due to their representation of breaking rules and limits. Some of the main characteristics of the collections are the layers and the soft, pastel colors and white used throughout.

Luis Carvalho

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Flowers set the note for Luis Carvalho’s collection; “Flower Explosion” is a collection where flowers influence shapes, cuts, colors and prints and also the choice of materials and their application and manipulation. It resulted in organic and fluid shapes in colors that range from white to black, with a predominant presence of various shades of blue. The materials chosen were cotton, crepe and elastic crepe, satin and vinyl.

Carlos Gil

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Carlos Gil presented “The New Sartorial” who “is simultaneously a tailor, a sculptor, a painter and an architect.” This collection intends to work around a woman’s silhouette with mastery, emotion and a crisp eye capable of structure the body by mixing curves, diagonal lines and patterns, always maintaining the purity and perfection of the tailored shapes. The colors present in the collection are white, black, brown, shades of blue and pink in fabrics such as satins and cottons, among others, where are also seen sequins and stripes in various pieces.

All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

Ancestral Opulence // Editorial Exclusive

The growing trend of ethic inspiration in contemporary fashion has come full circle with Rajdeep Ranawat’s collection.
By Stacy Ellen

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India is known for its incredible embroidery and textiles, but in recent years the global fashion market has also started recognizing India’s luscious designers. Rajdeep Ranawat is one of these designers that take inspiration from ethnic, vintage and modern fashion trends. His collection “Beyond the Cold” of the AW14 season was inspired from the cold forests where myths are born and legends are created, which illustrates the opulence with the infusion of these elements. Many new styles proceed…

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Ranawat takes inspiration from nature, his ancestors, vintage trends and the international fashion market to create a luxurious collection. Ranawat describes his collections as, “Where civilizations have thrived and then withered away into oblivion. It captures the possibility of the blurred lines between imagination and reality.”
With India coming of age and embracing globalization according to a Scholars World report, it is a pleasure to see a designer stay true to his roots but at the same time keep up with current global fashion trends. This somewhat new globalization of the Indian market creates an open field for innovation as Ranawat says, “By generating
diverse digital and embroidered pieces the collection tells innovative stories and deliver powerful ideas of fortress once beautified
by the wild imagination of human talent and creativity and their eventual downfall to the wilderness.”
My first impression of Ranawat’s collection is that it takes inspiration from the direction Dolce & Gabbana has gone in the last few seasons. Old world elegance with contemporary styling. Rajdeep Ranawat tries to graphically capture a sense of degenerating mosaics and lost handcrafted artifact; crumbling architectural structures over run by the forest, of treasures lost and parchments dissipated. The collection is created using pure fabrics like silk crepe, silk georgettes, organza and chandheri, the collection reflects its inspiration through its fabric treatment.
The “Beyond the Cold” collection is based in the variety and versatility of Rajdeep Ranawat’s resources and skills, the spontaneity of ideas and the heterogeneity of our Indian craftsmen, knowing that every garment is unique and singular. This trend has been on the forefront in the international market for a few seasons where the combination of new technology and old world esthetics meet to create a true harmony in style.

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Ranawat was educated at The Lawrence School, Sanawar; then went on to graduate from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi in 2000. He gained vast exposure and experience with a French fashion house based in Paris, ‘ISHWAR, S.A.’ and trained himself in European embroideries, colors and silhouettes under the guidance of various commercial French designers.
Thereafter he was appointed as the ‘chief designer’ for a New York based fashion house, and designed for the likes of brands such as
Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor, etc…. only to give him enough aptitude to launch his own brand label in 2004 for the domestic and the overseas markets. He fused European culture in terms of colors and embroideries combined the feel of the Orient, the commercial charm of Vintage and the essence of the generic cuts of his silhouettes that ooze elegance and create stance for all…

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‘Rajdeep Ranawat’, the label first launched in Oct’ 2004 is synonymous to women with an aura of glamour and charisma.
Ranawat said, “The Indian Fashion Consumer is a globe trotter today, they are well educated, and travel constantly for work or pleasure or both! With the foreign luxury and high street brands in India erupting.” There has also been an influx of high end designers such as Dior, Galliano, Balenciaga and Christian Louboutin outsourcing parts of their manufacturing to India according to a New
York Times article, which again brings this ethnic design trend full circle.
The American market has embraced Rajdeep Ranawat’s collections as well and he says, “Our resort wear is very popular not only in the Americas, but in India and other parts of the globe too… they are light, airy, breezy in luxurious silks and chiffons, with artworks that are exclusive and cuts that are comfortable and European in nature.”
Rajdeep Ranawat can be purchased in India at Ogaan, AZA, Fuel, Designer Studio, Elan, Ahamm, Anahita, Samsaara, as well as leading retailers in Hong Kong, South Africa,Jakarta, Dubai, Saudi Arabia, New York, and London.
In the United States at Madison Avenue and ‘SoigneK’ in New York City as well as ‘Fashion’ by Rohini Bedi in LosAngeles, California. For the current collection and
stocklist visit www.ranawat.com

Invasione Italiana // Editorial Video Exclusive

The world is yearning for roots and Roberta Sparta brings hers all the way from Italy…

A descendent of an Italian fashion house that turned manufacture for all the top labels such as ARMANI , VALENTINO, UNGARO, VERSACE. Sparta was born into the fashion business and came to Hollywood, California nearly  8 years ago to take her career as an actor and model to another level.

A Hollywood dream is born through her talent, beauty and determination to become the next successful import from Europe. The Fashion Noir film,  “Invasione Italiana” shows a twisted view of Hollywood.

Most recently the European and American worlds collide as Sparta is featured on the Italian TV show “Notorius” where the correspondent Alina Chelaru  follows Sparta around Hollywood capturing a day in the life of this rising star.

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Sparta born and raised in Dueville, Italy has called Los Angeles home since late 2008 when she moved here and attended the American Academy of Dramatic Arts.

She has starred in films such as “Anger of the Dead” , “Sex and the Single Alien” , “Ritual: A Psychomagic Story, “Things from Another World” and “Through the Wormhole” produced by Morgan Freeman.

In 2011 Sparta produced a short film entitled “A True Love” that was included in the “Short Corner” section at the acclaimed Cannes Film Festival.

She recently took on the animation genre by lending her voice to several characters in the Disney short “O’Sole Minnie” that won “Best Animated Short” at the 2014 Emmy Awards.

With all of these accomplishments Sparta has a big heart finding true comfort and joy in helping other through volunteering.

Two things she cannot live without, italian coffee and love!

To say the least Sparta is driven, and will make it as high as her dreams take her.

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Creative Director: Stacy Ellen
Photographer: Rodrigo Elenes
Actor|Model: Roberta Sparta

Hair|MUA: Cristina Fabian

Style Assistant: Brandon Godoy
Location: Venice Beach Canals, California USA

MDLX – FALL/WINTER – 2015/16 – FILIPE FAÍSCA

The collection ” Darling ” of Filipe Faísca, presented this Sunday ( 15 ) at ModaLisboa , was made with the help of nine girls, eight of them in treatment in the Portuguese Institute of Oncology ( IPO ) standard authors used on some parts .

Filipe Faísca joined the nine girls, aged between six and 16 years , in his studio in Lisbon twice .

The first asked them to draw a picture on a theme – the love – and taught them what a standard and a printed fabric ,but only after the drawings are ready is revealing that would be used in the collection.

The girls paraded alongside the models and were applauded by those presen

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MDLX – FALL/WINTER 2015/16 – TÂNIA NICOLE

The starting point of this collection was the invention of skateboard in the usa. In the 1960s men wearing classic suits down the streets of New York  on wood skates have influenced the contours and the details of the entire collection.

The greyish shades of modern cities have influenced the colour choice as well as the typical yellow of american cabs.

 

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