“Ermo” is a reflection of the dryness of the African deserts and Africa as the cradle of the world and foundation of the human conscience. Nair Xavier’s collection also uses as inspiration the lost Civilization of Ancient Egypt marked by development and wisdom and also utilitarian clothing, which reflects on the aesthetic and proportions of the collection. “Ermo” starts with the use of neutral colors, then passes by a mixture of geometrical patterns and finishes with strong warms tones.
“Hair|lucination” is Olga Noronha’s collection. This collection emphasizes the lack and loss of hair due to Alopecia and Chemotherapy secondary effects. The result is a collection that uses an abundance of artificial hair, in various different forms, shapes and colors, almost resulting in a “quasi-(capillary) hallucination”. The footwear seen on the show, which resulted of a partnership between Olga Noronha and Reebok, was auctioned during and after the show and all the profits will revert to IPO.
Ricardo Andrez presented “In-between”, a collection that is thought around the concept of transparency; transparency as a host and a vehicle for color, but also a reflection about how people can be characterized as “transparent” and how that is an indication of someone’s character. This resulted in a collection where is chosen what to show and what to hide, playing with transparency and opacity, using either man-made materials or natural elements, ranging from black, grey and white, with notes of silver, blue, lime-green and yellow.
Christophe Sauvat is a brand that designs for a modern, cosmopolitan woman, who travels the globe; that translates into the brand’s collections with eclectic prints, also seen in parts of this Spring/Summer 2016 collection. It is also very present in this collection the use of a diversity of colors – black, white, blue, orange, pink, red – textures (cotton, gauze, leather) and an amazing application work with beads and leather, which once more takes us back to the Christophe Sauvat woman.
Through the use of materials such as resins, brass, anodized aluminum, copper, turquoises, polyester, cotton thread and neoprene, Valentim Quaresma presented “Habitat”, a collection where a fine line separates accessories from clothing through the creation of an imaginary ecosystem inspired by animal architecture and the possible wildlife that would live in it. Kitsch is revisited and transposed to an underground universe where turquoise, red, black and metals are the predominant colors.
Catarina Sequeira presents “Reincarnation of gender through art”, a collection that its start point is a reflection about gender and how art have been exploring the theme, taking in consideration the work of Kimido Yoshida – Japanese painter and photographer-, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie – Nigerian author of the book “We should all be Feminist”- and Sascha Braunig – Canadian surrealist artist. Catarina Sequeira’s intention was not to be literal with her references; instead, the collection shows some abstract shapes that force the viewer to consider the figure in lieu of uncanny pattern. The result is a high-functioning but also unpredictable collection with hemmed stripes that create organic 3D shapes, the painterly styles, shorts and skirts punctuated by ruffles. The materials used were knitted silk, nylon, cotton with metallic print, painterly nappa, changeant, seersucker viscose and printed muslin in colors such as black, white, blue indigo, metallic blue, coral and mustard.
In “Mondrian”, the graphic expression was the direct source of inspiration of Miguel Vieira’s collection. A white base, a primary color (cobalt blue) and black were the main elements for the graphic inspiration of the collection. Mondrian’s paintings – abstract and minimalist, with geometric shapes and demonstrations of color blocks – were translated into the collection through fabrics manually woven to form patterns that remind us of his paintings. The abstract and minimalism are also transported to the silhouette and modeling of the collection either with sporty details, or with a strong sartorial presence, the balance is found in the Nobility and in the Informal, in Geometry and in Fluidity. The materials present in the collection were mesh, grosgrain, silk crepe, perforated leather, cottons, net with leather applications, manufactured braided fabrics, pure virgin wool and structured patterned fabrics.
This Spring/Summer 2016, Ricardo Preto presented “Effortless”, a collection that was thought for a traveled woman and that uses light materials such as silk, cotton and modal in fluid, long and draped silhouettes to achieve an effortless chic look. Also Ricardo Preto due to the transparencies and the asymmetrical layers that he uses in his looks, it comes across the androgyny and lady lingerie that he used as inspiration. The colors featured in the collection were blue, green, red, nude, black and white.
Alexandra Moura presented “the miracle of the roses”, a collection where the inspiration comes from a tale that crossed centuries until today – “and the King saw roses out of season”. The intention is that the tale will live, change and be brought from a cruel world, dominated by jealousy and greed, into a new world – the future – ruled by peace and kindness. In this collection, silhouette and details were worked to retell the story, in a continuous change as if they itself were a miracle. Holiness is revealed in the details that, metamorphosed, bring a whole new language to this ancient tale. Heavy fabrics are unified with the more ethereal in colors such as pink, red, black, white and blue.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa