On the second day of ModaLisboa, Olga Noronha presented her “β CREATURES” collection on the LAB platform. Olga Noronha had as principal inspiration the beauty and dichotomy – delicacy/violence – that are known to the male Betta fish. The designer used materials such as porcelain, fish skin from cod, salmon and sea bass, corals, gemstones, crystals, natural pearls, gold leaf and stamped polyester to create wearable sculptures that reflect the creatures from which she takes inspiration as well as the environment where those creatures live in. The shoes were a result from the collaboration between the designer and Biblical Lust.
Ricardo Andrez presented “Stereo”, a collection based on color and how color is attached to life and its’ intensity, emotion and dimension. Ricardo Andrez explored color transitions between the chromatic borders, translated to the collection with a predominant neutral color palette – white, grey and black – with the addition of vivid colors such as pink, orange, green, purple and blue, applied in solid blocks or in wave-like prints. Some of the details in the collection were the extra-long sleeves, the fur applications, the sleeves’ cutouts, the zipper application on cuffs, pants and jackets and, of course, the prints and color palette. Other details from the collection were the shoes – the result from a collaboration between Ricardo Andrez and Melo – and the sunglasses from Vava.
On the second day of ModaLisboa, Rose Palhares had her début on the LAB platform. The designer presented “Kiss from Rose”, a collection aligned with the theme for the 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa. “Kiss from Rose” was a collection that had a seductive, self-assured and passionate-about-life woman in mind, that dictate the use of laces and transparencies in the collection, as well as red, gold, blue, pink and champagne in form fitting silhouettes that complement the women’s body.
For AW 16/17 Christophe Sauvat presented a collection that reinforces the brand’s motto “One world, no boundaries”, travelling to the Nordic countries for inspiration. Staying true to the brand’s identity, Christophe Sauvat presented an eclectic collection yet appropriate to the urban and modern woman living in the city. The color palette present in the collection ranged from snow white, autumn browns and greens – a direct reflection of the Nordic landscapes – to black, that convey more versatility and elegance to the collection. The materials chosen vary from alpaca wool, leather and merino wool – for the warmer pieces – to cotton, faux astrakhan and silk – for the lighter pieces – embellished with embroideries and geometric patterns with pearls. The collection was completed with ethnic backpacks, embroidered clutches and practical cotton bags.
Pedro Pedro presented “L’etrangère”, a youthful and relaxed collection with distinctive and voluminous silhouettes, layers of asymmetrical pieces and utilitarian and military influence on the coats. The overall feeling of the collection was unpretentious, referring us to a rural setting where exaggerated lengths were presented on sleeves and pants.
The designer presented a mix of materials, from wools, felts, cottons, linens, wool jerseys, quilted impermeable and check, in sober colors such as grey, beige, camel, black, khaki and shades of olive and neon green.
“Woman” was the collection that Alexandra Moura presented on the last edition of ModaLisboa. The starting point of the collection was the work – sketches, scrapbooks and collages – of the artist Anohni, as well as the dramatic and theatrical charge present in her work.
“Woman” resulted in deconstructed classic silhouettes, with details brought from ancient times and from undergarments of both genders, that used as vehicle luxurious jacquard fabrics in voluminous coats and blankets, embellished with ruffles, ribbons and bows.
The color palette in the collection contemplated black, white, wine, blue, camel and sand tones.
Carlos Gil’s AW 16/17 collection was “Eclectic”. As the name refers, the collection mixed patterns, colors, textures and styles to provide a new look at elegance.
In general, thee looks were composed by unusual layer combinations that, at the same time, have vintage reminiscences, clean cuts and sporty details, creating a bold and elegant sportswear chic look.
Carlos Gil played with different fabrics and textures, as glitters, lace, fur and patterns, in blazers, coats, blouses, sweaters and pleated wrap skirts to achieve the eclectic aesthetic proposed for this season collection.
Morecco Lisboa presented for AW 16/17 its’ first full collection of garments.
The collection presented took as inspiration voyages through Turkey, Morocco and Korean cinema as well as the glamour of the nightclubs of New York and Paris in the 70s. The result was a celebration of color, textures and materials, where the color palette ranged from black, grey, white, orange and pale yellow and green in materials such as silk, fur and reused antique Chinese and Japanese fabric panels with fringe trims.
Miguel Vieira presented “Color”, a collection where color takes center stage and where the designer was influence for the meanings and emotions attached with every color he selected : the mystery, power and elegance of caviar black; the calm, loyalty, wisdom and confidence of the dark navy blue; olympian blue, blend of cobalt and sapphire hues; the innocence, purity and perfection of marshmallow white; the optimism, joy and energy of mustard yellow.
The materials used by Miguel Vieira were neoprene, custom fabrics, quilted fabrics, cloth, silk crepe and fur, that were applied, for women, in structured and informal lines or voluminous lines that do not hide femininity with long and extra long heights; For men, structured suits and impeccably cut trousers.
The collection was completed with braided skin handbags, scarves and bracelets.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa