ModaLisboa Kiss // Day One

The theme for this season of ModaLisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week was KISS; it was ModaLisboa’s 25th anniversary, which was a time to celebrate and to share the joy and the love for fashion.

Banda

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ModaLisboa’s fashion shows started March 10th at 6 p.m. with Banda, by the hands of Tiago Loureiro. He presented “Brazil Not Revisited” for his AW 16/17 collection, where he took inspiration from three Brazilian modernist artists: Oswald de Andrade, Lina Bo Bardi and Mendes da Rocha. From the first, the anthropophagy, the rite of cannibalism practiced by the Brazilian indigenous tribes present in his Manifesto Antropógrafo (1928); From the second, the interior/exterior ambiguous relationship of the artist architectural work and from the third, the dazzling strongholds through a more subversive space usage. “Brazil Not Revisited” is the result of Tiago Loureiro’s interpretation of the work of these artists as well as his own experience of growing up surrounded by the culture, arts, tv and Brazilian history on a daily basis, due to the strong links between Portugal and the ex-colony, Brazil. The collection resulted with men and women’s clothing, where a mix of symmetrical and asymmetrical shapes are used in fabrics that allow the pieces of clothing to move and have fluidity. The predominant colors used were red, shades of grey and camel, with notes of metallic, white, blue and where is also very notorious the use of print in several looks.

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David Catalán

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David Catalán presented “Club Ska 67”, where he reinterpreted two urban cultures: the Suedhead movement, which shares similarities with early London’s Skinhead culture and another urban movement from the London 70’s. The result was an urban and current collection, where the silhouettes were a contrast between rigid and fluid shapes where gender takes second stage, a reflection of the similarity between the male and female clothing of the urban cultures used as inspiration.

The color palette was a reflection of one of the most remarkable bands of that time, The Who, where white, black, yellow, red and blue take center stage as solid colors on the pieces of clothing or through the application in sashes and lines of the different colors in order to create various prints throughout multiple pieces. One detail that was also present in most pieces is the parallel vertical and/or horizontal lines made of stiches that contribute to the cohesion of the collection.

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Tânia Nicole

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Tânia Nicole presented “Melting”, a collection that took inspiration from the work of British artist Alex Chinneck, who specializes in architectural installations featuring optical illusions. His main projects include a row of upside-down shops in London and a house of wax bricks that will slowly melt over the course of a summer.

In “Melting”, the silhouettes and details of the collection such as the use of garments like overalls and upside-down jeans were a direct influence of the architectural side of the Chinneck’s projects, where Tânia Nicole interpreted into a workwear look associated to the work on the construction industry. Tânia also used multiple denim tones simulating a gradient effect in an attempt to mimic the melting process of the house of wax bricks project as well as vertical tears on the front or on the back in several pieces, resulting on unexpected details throughout the collection. Beanies, turtleneck, extra-long sleeves and rolled up jeans were also design choices made by Tânia Nicole in “Melting”.

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Carolina Machado

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For AW 16/17, Carolina Machado presented “Open”, an attempt of exploration of an identity; the definition of self-being, it’s authenticity, the several elements, events and changes that influence directly or indirectly it’s personification, resulting in a more intuitive act. In this sense, the collection conveys a certain softness and femininity, still influenced by some details and masculine lines. Allied to this ideal, is a surrealist, psychedelic and sensory work by the director René Laloux: “La Planète Sauvage”, 1973.

“Open” explores the silhouette of the 70’s, as well as the changing shapes of the characters called “Draggs”, an extraterrestrial race with red-eyes and blue skin from René Laloux’s work mentioned above, with high waist cropped wide leg pants, trumpet sleeves and deep V necklines.

Aside from the 70’s presence on the silhouettes, one of the main features in the collection was the application of eyelets, either along the necklines or as a standout feature on the pieces; an expression of the importance of clarity and transparency of self-being.

Carolina Machado’s collection featured a palette of earthy colors as oranges and burgundies and a range of deep blues and black.

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Ruben Damásio

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Inspired in the “Rumspringa”, which means “wander around”, Ruben Damásio presented a collection with the same name; a collection that portrays the time when young Amish, aged sixteen to twenty-one, break away from the community and move to bigger cities to explore new sensations and realities. The collection resulted on the mix of the two realities: the experiences in daring, urban and modern environments that add more knowledge and new values, and their past inside the Amish community. The first was translated into the collection with the use of bold colors such as the yellow, seen in almost whole looks and the blue, present in pops of color on socks, trims and linings; the second was represented by the black, grey and beige present in the collection as well as in the hats used, that evoke a dry, dark scenario, evidenced in their traditional Amish costumes.

The collection used mostly natural fibers, such as cotton, wool and cashmere and had the collaboration of Solaris’ sunglasses.

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Patrick de Pádua

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Patrick de Pádua presented “On the Hunt”, a collection that was not only a reference to the hunting universe but also a reflection of the constant search of the individuals for something that completes them. The collection explored this search for a feeling of personal realization, satisfaction and comfort in their own skin.

The result was a streetwear collection where the coats and specially the trench coat take center stage, feeding the idea that clothes are shelters that provide protection. “On the Hunt” used materials such as burel, leather, fur and impermeable in a color palette that ranged from black to beige passing through shades of green and grey.

The looks were complete with fur hats and trims, and sneakers that result from the collaboration with DKODE.

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Cristina Real

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“Miles” was the theme for Cristina Real’s AW 16/17 collection. “Miles” was designed with the beginning of a trip in mind and the freedom and adrenaline that comes with it; where there is no place to rules, no place to fear and no place to boundaries; where the wind breeze involves you and the colors and movement of nature report us to spaces, stories and distant memories.

“Miles” intended to bring some of that vision to the urban reality using colors such as white, shades of yellow, beige, bronze, brown, blue, shades of pink, bordeaux, red, grey and black, and the materials ranged from neoprene to neoprene with rubber texture and with velvet texture, matte sequins, synthetic fur with reflex, texture organzas, bouclé knit, faux fur and faux fur with stripes.

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Inês Duvale

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On this 25th anniversary of ModaLisboa, menswear designer Inês Duvale presented “VOODOO”. “VOODOO” was a collection that came from an abstract concept, a reality where we believe without seeing, where the sacred exists for unexplained reasons; we believe in what we want to believe because the verb “believe” comes as an opportunity to change and introduces the arrival of new perspectives. The designer choosed this theme because it allowed her to make her own interpretation and be guided by her own imagination. The collection resulted in a mix of fabrics such as leather, fur, wool and polyester ranging in color from black to white, passing through burgundy, yellow, green and purple. There were also interesting details in Inês Duvale pieces such as metallic applications like buckles, eyelets and shirt collar’s adornments.

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Sara Santos

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Menswear designer Sara Santos presented “Overlap”, a collection strongly inspired by the work of Portuguese artist “Vhils” and the period that reports to the first memories of this street art – the 80s and 90s. Through the exploration of the experimentalism and the aesthetic of the vandalism in urban environments, this kind of art was a Man’s need to express themselves in their context.

As well as our social environment, we are also composed of overlapping layers. This ideology was transported to Sara Santos’ collection where she explored the material by layers. The main material in her collection was denim, that she used in different shades and finishes, with raw trims or with the application of images that refer to “Vhils” work.

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Nair Xavier

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“Kalymnos” was the collection Nair Xavier presented on the past edition of ModaLisboa, opening up the LAB platform. She took inspiration from the Aegean Sea, the sponges and the aquatic fossil biodiversity to provide content to construction, color palette and materials, and used this collection as a tribute to Sponge Diving, an extinct trade on the Greek Island of Kalymnos.

The decade of 1960 and its cool attitude are also a reference to the silhouette of the collection and the color palette was composed by tones of nude, white, taupe and beige, with notes of black, red cast brown, charcoal grey and denim blue, applied in materials such as wool, synthetic leather and fur.

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David Ferreira

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ModaLisboa 25th anniversary was David Ferreira debut at Lisboa Fashion Week. He presented “Opulent Child” on the LAB platform and intended that his collection reflected today’s society – an overindulgent society where image and the perception of such defines who we are – blurring the lines between Fashion and Art. David Ferreira AW 16/17 used as mainstream references Pink Ladies, Heathers, Clueless, Plastics, Gossip Girl, Scream Queens, and also, in a more extravagant and opulent look, the royal clique of Versailles, Queen Marie Antoinette and duchess of Polignac, and personalities such as Marchesa Luisa Casati and Scarlett O’Hara from “Gone with the Wind”.

David Ferreira used a strong yet simple game of colors such as shades of pink and red on white and choosed materials as wool Melton, that was beaded, boned and conjugated with rabbit skin and brushed Tibetan lambskin to play with volume of the pieces exploring new silhouettes, also present on the use of tulle as trims and ruffles. Double-faced silk satin was also folded and stitched to create a strong visual and texture effect in the collection.

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Valentim Quaresma

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Valentim Quaresma presented “Domination”, a collection that took inspiration from the emotional charge domination and other control situations possess, where Valentim Quaresma intended to create a collection that showed the rise of self-confidence that a dominant position brings.

The theme was translated in the use of elements that suggest triumph and sovereignty, in an harmony between inflexibility and agility accomplished with the use of black and white resins and pexiglass on elements that resembled shark’s teeth, human bones, stuffed animal heads and baroque decoration elements in accessories such as belts, cufflinks, necklaces, cuffs and headpieces. Valentim Quaresma also used brass, aluminum, cotton twill, leather and synthetic materials on the jewelry and pieces of clothing.

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All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

ModaLisboa – The Timers // Day 1

ModaLisboa is one of the most anticipated fashion events in Portugal and takes place in Portugal’s capital, Lisbon. ModaLisboa is a three day fashion event and it is a place where not only the work of the most known portuguese fashion designers is presented, but also the young and newly graduated ones.

The Timers (the theme for Spring/Summer 2016) took place from October 9th to October 11th and started off with the platform SANGUE NOVO (Young Blood). SANGUE NOVO is where the work of young and emerging designers from fashion courses of national and international schools is presented. The designers selected to showcase their work this season were Tânia Nicole, Cristina Real, Banda, Rúben Damásio, Patrick de Pádua, Carolina Machado, Sara Santos, David Catalán, Carlotaoms and Inês Duvale. Also on the first day of ModaLisboa AWAYTOMARS, Catarina Oliveira, Luis Carvalho and Carlos Gil showcase their collections.

Tânia Nicole

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Tânia Nicole presented “Individuality”, a collection where the silhouettes were inspired by “Man’s Dress Reform Party” group and the color palette and the clothes design by the 1920’s posters of Russian Constructivist El Lissitzky.  The group mentioned above advocated new aesthetic and social ideals, promoting health, comfort, individuality and practicality through the use of washable materials, larger and comfortable underwear and clothes such as shorts, kilts and sandals for warmer weather. Both references are very present in Tânia Nicole’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection, from her choice of colors – grey, black, blue, white and notes of red –  to the design of the clothes itself – typologies, how the pieces are buttoned, proportions, materials and the use of stripes.

Cristina Real

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“Disforme” is the name of Cristina Real’s collection. The concept comes from the transition from a natural state to a city universe, where the connection between different environments leads to a relaxed deformity. On the search to capture an image on a moving object/situation/society, the accuracy of what is captured is dubious; it is always an exploration and a transformation of that image that is retained, which make that nothing gets restricted to the original idea. The color palette of “Disforme” includes white, beige, yellow, dark yellow, blue, red, rose, green and black and the materials seen in the collection range from sequins to nobuck, glitter, mousseline, neoprene, satin, napa and organza; colors and materials that report us to velocity times, adrenaline and where everything moves at the speed of light.

Banda

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“Cavalo Dado” is a search of the brand’s designer Tiago Loureiro to create a more appealing product to his clients, with the injection of more graphic elements, more light and more life with a streetwear approach to his design. The core of the collections relies on the existent intimacy between man and space, being the latter represented here by the city. Considering that the configuration of space has a tremendous impact in the perception and individual’s state of mind, the collection itself is metaphorically analyzing the capacity man has to adapt. The color palette varies from white to orange, from blue to powder white. It’s also to relevant to point out the presence of raw hemlines, deconstruction of button-downs and also the print of the traditional Lisbon tram in multiple pieces of the collection.

Rúben Damásio

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With the high temperatures in mind, “H2O Proof” is the theme for Rúben Damásio’s collection. Water takes center stage, the same way it happens during spring and summer. Fabrics like mousselines and sequins where chosen to mimic and enhance the natural characteristics of the water such as lightness, transparency and sparkle. It was also used in the collection materials such as cotton twills, linen and polyester to provide contrast with the materials mentioned above. The color palette ranged from white to black, passing by shades of grey and blue.

Patrick de Pádua

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Patrick de Pádua’s “Silêncio (silence)” is a result of introspection, reflection, a valley of silence; it is a search for tranquility and quietness. The collection combines a streetwear approach with sportswear elements inspired by the 90’s baseball uniform where colors such as shades of white with grey and bright yellow details are featured. The strongly sporty silhouette exudes a sense of lightness, freedom and comfort due not only for the cut of the pieces, but also due to the choice of fabrics such as mesh and other materials that translate as light weight fabrics.

Carolina Machado

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“Bare” is the collection where the concept of anthropocentrism is the starting point; Man and the human body itself were strip down of their technological surroundings and used as inspiration, giving room to appreciate the natural elements and draw attention for specific parts of the human body either by the cuts on the clothes or the shape of the strips of fabric in some pieces. Shades of blue with notes of beige as seen in Peter MacDonald’s photograph of the over flown Eyre river in Australia, are the colors featured in Carolina Machado’s collection and fabrics used were denim, linen and bird’s eye.

Sara Santos

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Taking inspiration from the traditional style of 1960’s Mod culture “the rebels without a cause”, Sara Santo’s “Teentakeover” results in a fusion of street and sportswear looks where blue, white, grey and black are the predominant colors with notes of red and orange. The silhouettes featured in the collection are also inspired by these nonconformists, radicals and revolutionaries through the mix of contrasting pieces with oversized and simple silhouettes, waterproof parkas and repetition of elements.

David Catalán

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David Catalán “Prom” is a collection that revolves around the emblematic prom night: the clothes, the shine of the fabrics, the lights. The result is a collection with sporty looks with festive fabrics in minimalistic silhouettes, youthful and preppy details inspired by the 70’s and straight and diagonal cuts with slightly flowing lines that create an effect of layers and volume. The colors used in “prom” were black, white, rose dancing queen and green quarterback.

CARLOTAOMS

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CARLOTAOMS presents “Allegory”, a collection that is intended to be the visual representation of the creative process of the two designers behind the brand: Elisabet Carlota and Elisenda Oms. Something that once was an invisible abstract idea comes to life through the straight lines, the patterns, the embroidery and the luminosity of the yellow, beside the brand identity colors’ black and white.

Inês Duvale

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“La Résistance” is a collection that takes inspiration from the power of all revolutions and all the people through history who were forced to make History. The colors present in Inês Duvale’s collection are black, white, red and blue in fabrics like leather and embellishments such as fringes.

AWAYTOMARS

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AWAYTOMARS, a self-entitled disruptive online platform that seeks alternative forms of interaction in the fashion system and that gives people all over the world the opportunity of co-design in the brand’s collections, presented “Perennial 2”, a collection that investigates the dynamic between time, ephemeral and consumption. The colors present throughout the collection were blue, shades of grey, black, red and notes of white.

Catarina Oliveira

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“Savage Mind” is a collection that intended to represent the victory of human instincts over conscience’s imposed limits through the use of transparencies and light fabrics and Ana Lira’s prints, who are one of the most important parts of the collection due to their representation of breaking rules and limits. Some of the main characteristics of the collections are the layers and the soft, pastel colors and white used throughout.

Luis Carvalho

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Flowers set the note for Luis Carvalho’s collection; “Flower Explosion” is a collection where flowers influence shapes, cuts, colors and prints and also the choice of materials and their application and manipulation. It resulted in organic and fluid shapes in colors that range from white to black, with a predominant presence of various shades of blue. The materials chosen were cotton, crepe and elastic crepe, satin and vinyl.

Carlos Gil

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Carlos Gil presented “The New Sartorial” who “is simultaneously a tailor, a sculptor, a painter and an architect.” This collection intends to work around a woman’s silhouette with mastery, emotion and a crisp eye capable of structure the body by mixing curves, diagonal lines and patterns, always maintaining the purity and perfection of the tailored shapes. The colors present in the collection are white, black, brown, shades of blue and pink in fabrics such as satins and cottons, among others, where are also seen sequins and stripes in various pieces.

All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa