On the third day of ModaLisboa, Kolovrat fashion show was held at the gymnasium of the Portuguese Marine, which was a suited place for Kolovrat’s collection called “Your favourite team is playing” and where the mandatory requirement to the guests attending the show was to wear sneakers. The fashion show started with six basketball players wearing one-tone overalls from the AW 16/17 collection, where they, on the basketball field, show the fluidity and comfort of the pieces. After the referee called the quits, the fashion show itself started: the pieces were mostly wool/cashemere and silk, in black and with notes of blues, yellows and natural tones.
“Your favourite team is playing” was a collection based in polarities: day and night, black and color, stillness and movement. Nature was one of the inspirations for the lines, details and silhouette of the collection, based primarily in organic lines and movement.
Apart from the colors and silhouette of the collection, crafted and intricate textures were mixed with wool and burel (highly hand crafted traditional wool which in this case is made by Ecolã) and were also used craft techniques like macramé, in t-shirts or skirt’s hems, a surprising detail that helps showcase the movement of the garment.
The last brand presenting their collection on the LAB platform for AW16/17 of ModaLisboa was AWAYTOMARS. The brand presented “AWAYTOMARS 446”, a collection that was the result of the brand’s identity: a collaboration between multiple creative people around the globe that contribute to create a single and cohesive collection.
The starting point for the collection was raw elements such as stone and metal; these elements were interpreted for the AWAYTOMARS community trough their online collaborative moodboard. That online interaction resulted in a collection where the color palette present in “AWAYTOMARS 446” was black, grey, white, copper and dry green, applied in a way that highlight and enhance the complexity that exists behind the simplest shapes, revealing the construction of the garments. Some signature details were the mix between drop shoulder and raglan sleeve, the geometrical lines in the pieces, placed in diagonal lines or cutouts, asymmetrical shapes and the transparency accomplished through the impermeable fabric. The music was composed by Marcelo Gerab and Gabriel Finotti.
“Electriccable” was the collection presented by SayMyName. The inspiration came from the effect that the lightning does in the sky on stormy days, as well as the huge amount of electric cables that dice the sky. Those references influence the prints and textures of the collection, as well as the asymmetrical lines of some of the pieces. Details as the godet was one of the ideas of the summer 2016 collection that were revisited and applied in the AW 16/17 collection.
Some pieces, such as the tubular dress, shirt dresses and paper-bag trousers, among others, where made using materials like felted neoprene, fantasy felt, padded, print anthracite jersey, poplin, textured mousseline and American fleece lined with silver. The color palette contemplated black, anthracite gray, white, red, blue sky and silver.
The theme for Nadir Tati’s collection was “A voz de Angola” (Angola’s voice). The designer’s AW 16/17 collection was delicate and refined, while still having Angolan roots that can be seen in her selection of fabrics and colors.
For women, a collection of evening gowns with drapes, embroideries, transparency, lace and African fabrics in red, gold and blue; for men, a more casual look in white with trims of African fabrics.
Piotr Drzal presented “Nocturne”, a collection that took inspiration from the emotional connotations of the night in nature – a “precious habitat of emotions, feelings and unknown”.
Piotr Drzal presented a Men’s collection composed primarily by dark hues such as black, eggplant, grey, metallic and white, a direct reflection of his inspiration. The designer also presented interesting details throughout the collection such as the use of vertical zippers on the pockets of the shirt’s front, lateral seam and jacket’s arms, as well as an accent detail in jackets’ collars and cuffs, and the unexpected use of sequins in various garments.
Filipe Faísca celebrated the ageless woman in his AW 16/17 collection “New Age”. The designer celebrated the fearless woman, the determined woman, the woman that becomes whatever or whomever she chooses to.
The collection was built with materials such as cotton, wool, mouton race, neoprene, silk, viscose and lace, with the presence of patterns accomplished with naprons and hand made patterns done through the manipulation of fabrics. The predominant colors were black, white, lime and sand and the designer had the support of Luvaria Ulisses for the gloves, André Ópticas for the glasses, Wolford for the lingerie and collants, and Christian Louboutin for the shoes.
Dino Alves presented “New Kings”, a collection that it’s starting point was the world of upper class that live with wealth, luxury and ostentation and the irony that comes from doing a collection with those references in a reality of economic crisis. The designer visited the references of this world in order to create a new social class, “ruled by the richness in character, nobility in attitudes and actions, solidarity with the most disadvantaged: the value and integrity as human beings will make them the New Kings.”
The silhouette from “New Kings” primarily has a flared line with volume in some parts of the garments in materials such as wool, tweeds, cotton with polyester, neoprene, velvet, denim, cotton poplin, vinyl fabrics and viscose. Some details of the collection are seams cut with forms of baroque decorative elements taken from palace interiors, furniture and other decorative pieces, overlapping panels with matching shapes to create embossing images, decorative details in macro manual stitches made with tissues and holes and embroidered motifs using the same technique, frills, ruffles, lavish laces and lacy collars.
The colors used throughout the collection were black, white, various shades of grey, green, rose quartz, blue, bordeaux, burgundy, orange, light blue, yellow, gold, camel, printed floral baroque indigo and brocades.
“Cold as ice” was the theme for Luis Carvalho AW 16/17 collection, where the inspiration comes from the coldest Nordic landscapes.
The tranquility, purity and silence from the Nordic landscapes influenced the designer to choose lighter and more fluid shapes and colors such as white, pale pink and grey; at the same time, the ice crystals present in these landscapes, suggested straight lines and volume used on the silhouette, details and prints, as well as the colors black and eggplant. The materials used by Luis Carvalho were cotton, wool, satin, twills and leather/fur. The shoes were a collaboration with EUREKA and the sunglasses with FORAsunglasses.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
ModaLisboa is one of the most anticipated fashion events in Portugal and takes place in Portugal’s capital, Lisbon. ModaLisboa is a three day fashion event and it is a place where not only the work of the most known portuguese fashion designers is presented, but also the young and newly graduated ones.
The Timers (the theme for Spring/Summer 2016) took place from October 9th to October 11th and started off with the platform SANGUE NOVO (Young Blood). SANGUE NOVO is where the work of young and emerging designers from fashion courses of national and international schools is presented. The designers selected to showcase their work this season were Tânia Nicole, Cristina Real, Banda, Rúben Damásio, Patrick de Pádua, Carolina Machado, Sara Santos, David Catalán, Carlotaoms and Inês Duvale. Also on the first day of ModaLisboa AWAYTOMARS, Catarina Oliveira, Luis Carvalho and Carlos Gil showcase their collections.
Tânia Nicole presented “Individuality”, a collection where the silhouettes were inspired by “Man’s Dress Reform Party” group and the color palette and the clothes design by the 1920’s posters of Russian Constructivist El Lissitzky. The group mentioned above advocated new aesthetic and social ideals, promoting health, comfort, individuality and practicality through the use of washable materials, larger and comfortable underwear and clothes such as shorts, kilts and sandals for warmer weather. Both references are very present in Tânia Nicole’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection, from her choice of colors – grey, black, blue, white and notes of red – to the design of the clothes itself – typologies, how the pieces are buttoned, proportions, materials and the use of stripes.
“Disforme” is the name of Cristina Real’s collection. The concept comes from the transition from a natural state to a city universe, where the connection between different environments leads to a relaxed deformity. On the search to capture an image on a moving object/situation/society, the accuracy of what is captured is dubious; it is always an exploration and a transformation of that image that is retained, which make that nothing gets restricted to the original idea. The color palette of “Disforme” includes white, beige, yellow, dark yellow, blue, red, rose, green and black and the materials seen in the collection range from sequins to nobuck, glitter, mousseline, neoprene, satin, napa and organza; colors and materials that report us to velocity times, adrenaline and where everything moves at the speed of light.
“Cavalo Dado” is a search of the brand’s designer Tiago Loureiro to create a more appealing product to his clients, with the injection of more graphic elements, more light and more life with a streetwear approach to his design. The core of the collections relies on the existent intimacy between man and space, being the latter represented here by the city. Considering that the configuration of space has a tremendous impact in the perception and individual’s state of mind, the collection itself is metaphorically analyzing the capacity man has to adapt. The color palette varies from white to orange, from blue to powder white. It’s also to relevant to point out the presence of raw hemlines, deconstruction of button-downs and also the print of the traditional Lisbon tram in multiple pieces of the collection.
With the high temperatures in mind, “H2O Proof” is the theme for Rúben Damásio’s collection. Water takes center stage, the same way it happens during spring and summer. Fabrics like mousselines and sequins where chosen to mimic and enhance the natural characteristics of the water such as lightness, transparency and sparkle. It was also used in the collection materials such as cotton twills, linen and polyester to provide contrast with the materials mentioned above. The color palette ranged from white to black, passing by shades of grey and blue.
Patrick de Pádua
Patrick de Pádua’s “Silêncio (silence)” is a result of introspection, reflection, a valley of silence; it is a search for tranquility and quietness. The collection combines a streetwear approach with sportswear elements inspired by the 90’s baseball uniform where colors such as shades of white with grey and bright yellow details are featured. The strongly sporty silhouette exudes a sense of lightness, freedom and comfort due not only for the cut of the pieces, but also due to the choice of fabrics such as mesh and other materials that translate as light weight fabrics.
“Bare” is the collection where the concept of anthropocentrism is the starting point; Man and the human body itself were strip down of their technological surroundings and used as inspiration, giving room to appreciate the natural elements and draw attention for specific parts of the human body either by the cuts on the clothes or the shape of the strips of fabric in some pieces. Shades of blue with notes of beige as seen in Peter MacDonald’s photograph of the over flown Eyre river in Australia, are the colors featured in Carolina Machado’s collection and fabrics used were denim, linen and bird’s eye.
Taking inspiration from the traditional style of 1960’s Mod culture “the rebels without a cause”, Sara Santo’s “Teentakeover” results in a fusion of street and sportswear looks where blue, white, grey and black are the predominant colors with notes of red and orange. The silhouettes featured in the collection are also inspired by these nonconformists, radicals and revolutionaries through the mix of contrasting pieces with oversized and simple silhouettes, waterproof parkas and repetition of elements.
David Catalán “Prom” is a collection that revolves around the emblematic prom night: the clothes, the shine of the fabrics, the lights. The result is a collection with sporty looks with festive fabrics in minimalistic silhouettes, youthful and preppy details inspired by the 70’s and straight and diagonal cuts with slightly flowing lines that create an effect of layers and volume. The colors used in “prom” were black, white, rose dancing queen and green quarterback.
CARLOTAOMS presents “Allegory”, a collection that is intended to be the visual representation of the creative process of the two designers behind the brand: Elisabet Carlota and Elisenda Oms. Something that once was an invisible abstract idea comes to life through the straight lines, the patterns, the embroidery and the luminosity of the yellow, beside the brand identity colors’ black and white.
“La Résistance” is a collection that takes inspiration from the power of all revolutions and all the people through history who were forced to make History. The colors present in Inês Duvale’s collection are black, white, red and blue in fabrics like leather and embellishments such as fringes.
AWAYTOMARS, a self-entitled disruptive online platform that seeks alternative forms of interaction in the fashion system and that gives people all over the world the opportunity of co-design in the brand’s collections, presented “Perennial 2”, a collection that investigates the dynamic between time, ephemeral and consumption. The colors present throughout the collection were blue, shades of grey, black, red and notes of white.
“Savage Mind” is a collection that intended to represent the victory of human instincts over conscience’s imposed limits through the use of transparencies and light fabrics and Ana Lira’s prints, who are one of the most important parts of the collection due to their representation of breaking rules and limits. Some of the main characteristics of the collections are the layers and the soft, pastel colors and white used throughout.
Flowers set the note for Luis Carvalho’s collection; “Flower Explosion” is a collection where flowers influence shapes, cuts, colors and prints and also the choice of materials and their application and manipulation. It resulted in organic and fluid shapes in colors that range from white to black, with a predominant presence of various shades of blue. The materials chosen were cotton, crepe and elastic crepe, satin and vinyl.
Carlos Gil presented “The New Sartorial” who “is simultaneously a tailor, a sculptor, a painter and an architect.” This collection intends to work around a woman’s silhouette with mastery, emotion and a crisp eye capable of structure the body by mixing curves, diagonal lines and patterns, always maintaining the purity and perfection of the tailored shapes. The colors present in the collection are white, black, brown, shades of blue and pink in fabrics such as satins and cottons, among others, where are also seen sequins and stripes in various pieces.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa