“In the last edition of ModaLisboa, we sailed to the Cape of Good Hope. This season, we face the sea monster head on with a strong urge to be tied to the helm.” In this Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Nuno Gama uses as inspiration the sail Portuguese did around the Cape of Good Hope, in search of the incredible Africa, and across the immense Indian Ocean to the silent Asian beauty of blossoming almond trees, using all that Portuguese saw in this travel as elements of his design. Along with this, he recovered Dandyism, through tailor-made, personalized and unique pieces where we see the permanence of luxury and color, and the renewal of the everlasting classics, that is present on the shirts, ribbons, kerchiefs and ties.
Filipe Faísca presents “Now”, a collection that represents the strength we have to experience life that is in a constant change, with all of our uncertainties, dreams and social demands. But in the end, we will arrive where we are supposed to. This concept translated into the collection in a fluid, oversize and layered silhouette in materials such as silk, viscose, neoprene, leather and lace. The colors used in “Now” were mid-day white, eclipse black, desert dust, apple green, jade blue and coral.
“Invitation for coffee” is the collection Lidija Kolovrat presented for Spring/Summer 2016. She uses her childhood memories and experiences as inspiration for this collection: the “patterns” left by the coffee in the bottom of the cup and the women who talked about these stains, foreseeing happenings and life situations which improved Lidija’s connection with the Universe and the meanings of its abstract nature. The silhouettes resulted of the combination between the abstract and the composition of worked circular shapes and refined “classical” lines, evolving into monochromatic tones of black and white, with a touch of blue, introduced through the original artworks of coffee elements.
“Souls of Africa” is a homage to all African women that, regardless of the perception of a general underdevelopment, there is a class that wants to ascend to a better quality of life and ensure a future position of the woman, doing that association through the design, glamour, style and art of fashion that is produced in Africa to a luxury international market. The collection results in simple and fluid lines, with a fusion of fabrics – lace, organza, silk and traditional African super wax – and textures – stones and embroidery placed by hand – in black, red and gold dresses.
Pedro Pedro presented “The lady in question” where the result is a bet on a divergence of shapes and materials coming from a brutalist solution, creating an informal but no less sophisticated look. The silhouettes are sinuous and elegant, with draperies effects and raw finishes. The materials go along with the contrasting vision, having opted for materials such as satin, jersey of silk and cotton which combine with nets and abstract lace that reinforce the unfinished look. The colors go from blue marine to brique, passing by black and white. The shoes are a fundamental piece of the Pedro Pedro collection: colorful, with irregular broidery and handmade braids with fabrics strips.
Piotr Drzal presented his Men Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The result was a collection that distinguishes for its apparent simplicity, easiness and modesty, with clean lines where is visible an urban and sporty inspiration. The colors present in the collection were khaki, red, white, midnight blue, grey, army green and black.
Aleksandar Protic presented “Goddesses”, a collection that resulted in fluid and soft silhouettes, with a mixed of draped and more structured forms in materials such as cotton, mix. cotton/linen, silk, viscose and polyester. The colors used were off white, pearl, olive and black.
“My process – diary of a collection” is a collection inspired in the process of creating a collection or any other creative/artistic project that involves sketching, annotating, erasing, crumpling primary ideas, testing color combinations, shapes, dialogues that one often abandons but that help us to get to what we want to show. Dino Alves’ collection resulted in a silhouette that is Irregular with linear, poorly defined contours, fluid and structured in the same piece through tissue manipulation with random pleats that shrink parts of the shapes, with hems either very long and/or very short. The materials used were silk, cotton, viscose, linen, silk organza, cotton voiles, satin, cool wool, cupro and polyester in colors such as white, black, blue, red, dry green, pale pink, pearl, nude and multi-colored details.
All photos are copyright protected: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa